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  1. It's a method devised by Greiner in the late 50's or early 60's which allows the use of the timing machine to find the heavy spot when you have an amount of positional error. I understand that their method rendered the 'static poising' method to be obsolete (their words, not mine). In the most basic form the method is to test in 8 positions (0 to 7) in the vertical, and find the position where the watch is gaining the most. The starting position is to draw an imaginary line from the escape wheel centre to the balance centre and set the movement on the microphone with the line vertical, the balance being above the escape wheel. This is position '0' Each test you turn the movement clockwise by 45º, the first = point 1 second = point 2 and so on. When you find your heavy spot (where the watch is gaining the most) take the balance off the watch and flip it over so the impulse pin is facing up. Draw an imaginary line from the staff through the impulse pin to the balance wheel rim. This is point 0. At 45º from this point is point '1' and 90º is point 2. Point 4 is at 180º on the balance rim and hopefully you get the idea. So whatever position is gaining the most on the timing machine, you would either reduce weight at that point or add weight (timing washer) on the opposite side of the heavy spot. And this depends on the rate when the watch is in the horizontal. If the watch is slower in the horizontal then you will lighten the screw at the point found. If the watch is faster in the horizontal then you will lighten the screw opposite the point found. If the watch is running at zero rate in the horizontal then you would lighten the screw nearest the point found and add weight to the opposite of that point in equal measure to the lightening. If the balance has no screws then the only choice to be had would be to remove material at the heavy spot, it's not possible to add weight. Two things to note is that, when testing on the timing machine, the watch should be wound down enough so that the amplitude is between 150º and 180º And secondly the watch must be cleaned and properly lubricated first. I hope my overview is clear, it's late and I have enjoyed a few fingers this evening :)
  2. I am continuing with my restoration of early IWC Cal. 64 and Cal 64T watch movements. Even after cleaning and oiling the timing is often out by more than the index lever can accomodate. Today the movement was running slow, however, the timing screws on the balance were each 3 turns unscrewed. This provided me with the necessary adjustment to increase the beat rate. But it can be a fiddly job, particularly for my unsteady hands. Here is my solution - a small clamp to hold the balance while I turn the screws with a 0.5 mm Horotec driver : The base is milled out of Delrin (Nylon), the finger clamp is from copper-beryllium shim with a thin leather lining on the balance side. The screw-down piece is made from a from a pocket watch stem and crown. Here it is under the x20 binocular microscope with perfect vision and access to the timing screws.
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