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Mark, I've been watching your Part 3 of the chronometer servicing videos - this is the one where the assembly process shows the oiling required. Once again I'm struck by the delicacy required in the oiling process - and how the wrong amoutn can make all the difference between assisting the mechanical process or slowing it down. I'm sure you've seen the collection of videos made by our YouTube friend "BunnSpecial" - I love 'em! (And it's through watching his stuff that I came across your excellent videos). I love them because of the stream of consciousness that he mutters as he works - and the occasional burps :wub: - and he's obviously a dedicated and skilled amateur. BUT - he seems to put twice as much oil everywhere as you do - fairly cavalier about it, in fact - and I wonder if he's therefore storing up trouble for the future by doing so.

It's difficult for me to answer this. Perhaps I'll start by saying that names like Rolex, Patek Phillippe, etc., aren't my main focus. The first watches I ever started to collect seriously were American railroad watches, and this happened purely by accident when I was given an Elgin 571 "B.W. Raymond" RR grade watch: The case for this was very brassed when I got it, and the bow was a bad replacement - but I thought the movement was wonderful. I couldn't imagine that a factory-produced object could be turned out to such a standard - 21 jewels, 8 adjustments, subtle damaskeening, wonderful dial, etc. I went to the expense of having a proper bow hand-made for it, and then got the casemaker to re-gild the brassed case. And what I saw in this watch, I look for to be in my "keepers" ever since: good, practical design, good workmanship, solid, well-finished construction, no unncecessary frills, etc.

Another Bunnspecial fan here! I love the "donation to the cause" watches. It seems watches are like car engines, too much oil is as bad as too little. I am amazed though watching your video's mark how a tiny drop will do. Am I right in thinking that each oil offers different dispersion characteristics? Some disperse more freely and widely than others? and then some like the oil you put on the Pallet stones just stays in place?

They are great, aren't they? He gives the impression sometimes that he's not sure what goes where, but I think he knows more than he lets on. I love the way his channel says, "No watches were harmed in the making of these videos". :thumbsu:

Yeah, those are sweet machines! But, I'll have to settle for what I have....plus, it was only $150. It's very quite when the Ultrasonic part is turned off. But Hey!, that's what you get for $150! I'm happy with it, even though it's the size of small person, 80 pounds (or 36kg for you natives!)!

How to replace a rotor bearing in two watch movements - the ETA 2892-A2 movement (on an Omega Dynamic watch). And a Valjoux 7750 movement (on an Ikepod watch).The rotor bearing on these watch movements and their variants often wear faster then the other parts in the watch due to constant movement and vibration. When servicing these movements it is best practice to replace the bearings so that the automatic mechanism runs optimally. Replacing them is a near impossible task without the correct tool. The bearing nut tool is made by Horotec and also Bergeon makes one. There are two key sizes. The 7750 is smaller than the key for the 2892-A2. Attempting to remove the bolt without the correct tool will likely cause damage to the weight. Refitting the bolt without the correct tool is almost impossible. The tool is relatively easy to use. I recommend placing the weight on a small staking block so that you can apply pressure to the bolt without depressing the weight (causing damage). I have created a quick video showing the removal and replacement of the bolt on both these watch calibres. Feel free to comment below. Click here to view the article