Jump to content

Shelf life of oils VS time of use

Josip

By Josip
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

Josip New Member

Josip

Posted
Posted

Many oils have suggested shelf life of 6 years when they are bought new. Then again it is suggested that watches should be serviced every 6 years so.
 
My question is:
If a watch is serviced with a brand new oils...
OR
...With oils that are near their recommended shelf life
 
Could one expect there to be a significant difference in the performance of the watch? I mean, in theory, the oils are either 6 or 12 years old at the time of the next service.
 
Let’s assume that the oils have been properly stored :)

  • Like 2
canthus Super WRT Addict

canthus

Posted
Posted

Properly stored to me means in a full (or a near full as possible) glass container (does not react with additives) with a tight lid, stored upside down (oil acts as a further seal for lid), in a warm fridge (ie not near freezing), in the dark (like the can Mb supply their oils in).  I would then be happy with 10-12 year old oil, otherwise 6 years seems fine.  Synthetic oils will keep their condition longer than ordinary mineral oils.

High levels of light, heat, air or moisture will increase oxidation and degradation.  Metal containers can 'use up' the additives for rust prevention etc.

  • Like 1
canthus Super WRT Addict

canthus

Posted
Posted

I forgot to mention that my comments are for storage of oils.  The oil should be at room temp when applied to the workpiece.  If it is still cold then it will be more viscous (thicker) and will not flow as easily into the gaps etc.  However, if as most of us do, it is put into an oil pot/well then the small amount will soon warm up to room temp.

Using very cold oil on a warm part may also result in the microscopic amount of water in most oils (yes they do contain some!!) condensing out under the oil film.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...