Bezel for 1954 Rolex 6581 Oyster Perpetual

[LittleWatchShop]

56 minutes ago, Gula67 said:

Hi,what is the model number for that case? Is possible I have one for service with me,if so then I can measure for you the factory size of the bezel

1954 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 6581

[Gula67]

I have a 6564 with me what is take a same tropic 12 crystal,most likely have the same parameters for the bezel. Do you need the measurement for that?

[LittleWatchShop]

An update...

I bought some 316 steel washers from McMaster Carr. For days I have been turning it to get to what you see in the image.  it is not done, of course.  the inside diameter of the top as shown is close.

The washer is too thick, so I am gonna need to figure a way to make it thinner.

Last week I had a long talk on the phone with @SwissSeiko and got some tips. He suggested Harbor Freight insertable carbide cutters. Wow, they work well.

Miles to go before I sleep.

Here is my setup

[SwissSeiko]

Looking good! It's very nearly there. You'll have it finished before you know it

[Mark]

Great job!!

[LittleWatchShop]

On 4/25/2025 at 11:59 AM, Gula67 said:

I have a 6564 with me what is take a same tropic 12 crystal,most likely have the same parameters for the bezel. Do you need the measurement for that?

As I am getting close, I would like to know the total thickness of the bezel (top to bottom).  I am working on two solutions--one is thinner than the other.  The crystal sits pretty proud relative to the bezel, and seems consistent with the pictures I have seen.  But, actual measurements would be nice.

[LittleWatchShop]

I think i am done. I was working withe two pieces, one was 316 SS and the other 304 SS. The starting material for 304 was thinner, so I opted for finishing it. Since I only have images of one of these watches, I cannot know the exact dimensions. The owner is not critical...just wants a working solution. I think this is it.

It was quite the challenge to turn the inside  locking rim. An inside angle cut. Had to be damn close in order to have a snap fit. Frankly I think I just got lucky. Sometimes lucky is better than smart!

The inside edge that interfaces with the crystal is an interference fit. This was on purpose in case my locking-edge cut was overshot...then the bezel and crystal would work together to stay put.

Tens of hours working on this, and I learned a lot!

 

 

[rehajm]

…it’s a very clean look done very well. Thanks for sharing…and may I inquire what’s on the bench behind?

Edited 5 hours ago by rehajm

[LittleWatchShop]

1 hour ago, rehajm said:

…it’s a very clean look done very well. Thanks for sharing…and may I inquire what’s on the bench behind?

That is an Elgin Grade 152. Not a success story! Tried to repivot 4th wheel. Fail. On the hunt for a replacement.

[nevenbekriev]

46 minutes ago, LittleWatchShop said:

That is an Elgin Grade 152. Not a success story! Tried to repivot 4th wheel. Fail. On the hunt for a replacement.

Can You share what happened? May be there is a solution, it is true for almost all situations.

[LittleWatchShop]

6 minutes ago, nevenbekriev said:

Can You share what happened? May be there is a solution, it is true for almost all situations.

I have no pride.

The subseconds pivot was broken when I got the watch.  I filed it flat at the point in the arbor where the diameter changes.  Chucked it up in the lathe and turned a center for drilling.  Using a carbide drill bit, I proceeded to drill a hole.  I was making progress and should have stopped, but I didn't.  The drill broke off.  Not the first time for this to happen.  I considered making a new arbor from scratch.  I have a mill and a precision indexed rotary table along with some cutting wheels that was part of a recent lot buy.  I actually cut a pinion on brass stock just to see what the teeth profile were.  I think I could do it, but did not know if my cutting wheel was HSS or something else, so I did not want to destroy a wheel on a fools errand. My metallurgical skills are weak to none, so the prospect of annealing, cutting, hardening seemed like more effort than it was worth even though it would be another great learning experience.  So...I set it aside for now.

[AndyGSi]

Is this what you're looking for?

A bit priced so you're probably best just getting a donor like this 247.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256805393040

 

 

Edited 3 hours ago by AndyGSi

[LittleWatchShop]

10 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Is this what you're looking for?

A bit priced so you're probably best just getting a donor like this 247.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256805393040

 

 

I did purchase of Elgin 16s the other day, I think one of them will work, but I have been focused on this Rolex bezel until now...maybe today I will see if I have a winner.

[nevenbekriev]

2 hours ago, LittleWatchShop said:

I have no pride.

The subseconds pivot was broken when I got the watch.  I filed it flat at the point in the arbor where the diameter changes.  Chucked it up in the lathe and turned a center for drilling.  Using a carbide drill bit, I proceeded to drill a hole.  I was making progress and should have stopped, but I didn't.  The drill broke off.  Not the first time for this to happen.  I considered making a new arbor from scratch.  I have a mill and a precision indexed rotary table along with some cutting wheels that was part of a recent lot buy.  I actually cut a pinion on brass stock just to see what the teeth profile were.  I think I could do it, but did not know if my cutting wheel was HSS or something else, so I did not want to destroy a wheel on a fools errand. My metallurgical skills are weak to none, so the prospect of annealing, cutting, hardening seemed like more effort than it was worth even though it would be another great learning experience.  So...I set it aside for now.

OK, I have been there many times and know several solutions.

As I believe, the pinion (the part with the leaves ) is on the other side of the arbor, yes? If so, then there is easy way to solve the problem.

You can grind from one side as shown on the drawing with dremel tool. This will allow to push out the broken drill bit easy from inside. Then You will be able to insert new pivot and then You can solder it in place and in the same time to fill the ground portion with solder. Of course, I mean solder for PCBs, but not the led free one - use led containing solder, the led free solder which is offered in common hardware stores is for idiots.