DOXA SUB 5000T - Glass gaskets (Replacement) - Anybody done this...

[Freebase]

Hi,

presently struggling to remove the glass on my Doxa Sub 5000T Seaconqueror Sharkhunter.

(Nothing like giving the same thing loads of names to make it sound important)

 

I have removed Bezel, Click spring, Glass retainer, o-ring shim and top o-ring.

The o-ring broke due to old age whilst cleaning with a tissue.

Just cracked; Brittle after 10+yrs.

So it was time for a service.

 

There is a second gasket, around the base of the stepped glass, but i am struggling to remove this.

It is perished i think, and is coming out in pieces.

 

Any ideas, as i dont want to damage anything if there is a 'Trick'.

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Edited February 4 by Freebase
wrong model number, should have been 5000T

[AndyGSi]

Photos would help but expect it needs pushing out with a press.

[Freebase]

Hi, thanks for the reply.

(Photos attached)

You may be right, ref removal.

The first thing to confirm (for me).

Is the glass front mounted?

A few years ago the watch had a whack, and the 6 o'clock decal got dislodged.

I had to take the glass off to remove the decal with tweezers before it damaged the movement.

I had no trouble removing the glass then (as i recall)

But struggling now.

A few years on (and i still havn't put the decal back on)...

And the glass is now proving difficult to remove, with last seal.

It may have been damaged with Acetone, and rotted/perished into the space.

(I was rebuilding the hull of a GRP Fibreglass boat at the time)

So, a press from the rear, even if the glass is front mounted may be required.

Is that what you are suggesting.

Remove case back +movement, and press out from the rear.

Thank you.

 

 

The seal in question is the white ring visible as you move out from the second markers...

I believe it sits on the front face of the step of the glass.

 

[AndyGSi]

2 hours ago, Freebase said:

So, a press from the rear, even if the glass is front mounted may be required.

Is that what you are suggesting.

Remove case back +movement, and press out from the rear.

Yes, that's the normal way to remove a lens.

The problem then becomes getting new gaskets if the old one is perished.

What's the reason for removing it?

[Freebase]

Thanks, OK understood.

Guess i was just lucky the first time.

I think Cousins have gaskets, once i know what i'm looking for exactly.

If not ill contact Doxa (Hit and miss whether you get a result ot not)

In my own experience.

 

Reason was to service the gaskets.

I took the back off to check the rotor bearing (perfect)

And the rear case o-ring is no longer an o-ring.

It is flattened and hardened. 12 years old now.

Dont think it was sealing much to be honest.

So i thought i'd check the front, and it literally cracked apart.

Did not want to wait until the watch got water in it.

Caught this issue just in time by the looks of it.

Watch now out of service with damaged seals until i get it fully apart and can work out what i need as replacements.

Will also try Gleave & Co this time i think.

Never changed a glass/gasket set before, so again, thanks for the input.

It is appreciated.

Decided this year to do all my own watch work.

And to pro-actively maintain rather than just be reactive after a fault.

I am going to have to get more watches...

[Freebase]

@AndyGSi

You were correct, it is necessary to (remove all front parts; Bezel, retaining ring, "seal"Washer", and then remove rear case, crown, movement and then press glass out from the rear towards the front. As it turned out, The seal was brittle and cracked. Not sealing anything. It is now my held opinion, that all seals on a watch of this type should be replaced regularly. Or one or all will eventually fail without warning. (If they are actually used at sea and get submerged)

Just need to source a replacement glass and seal kit now...

[AndyGSi]

The glass should be simple enough and the seal looks like a I-Ring.

Can you post some photos with measurements and where in the world you are.

[Freebase]

The minute i posted i knew photos would be helpful.

You are correct again, it is am "L" profile, didn't spot this initially.

Dry as kindling.

More convinced that the acetone this has been subjected to has damaged it.

Just glad the seals didn't breach in use.

Movement is intact

For completeness, i also post here the SUB 300T seal kit from cousins.

This is not the correct kit for the SUB 5000T.

[AndyGSi]

I think you've got a job on your hands piecing that together.

[Freebase]

Agreed.

Which is why it is in pieces in a box.

Along with other watches i am servicing.

And also why i have ordered 3 watches in the last week alone, as cheap stand-ins.

The expensive items really do not stand up any better than cheaper alternatives if they get beaten to within an inch of scrap.

So, i'll take my time.

Meanwhile, 'Homage' is the way to go...

 

[AndyGSi]

How does the ring with the step sit in relation to the lens?

[Freebase]

Good question.

The lens is rounded on the edge.

Tapering away towards the rear.

The plastic ring is larger diameter at front, redusing after the step, towards the rear.

Ring goes into case from front first.

Then lens, then seal and "washer" ring, then screw down metal ring.

Not my idea of how to seal glass.

Bearing in mind the plastic ring is against the ground glass edge.

But apparently works to 5000ft.

Not sure i entirely believe that after the stripdown.

 

Regardless, i'll find the parts eventually i'm sure.

I have yet to contact Doxa, been busy with other thinigs.

 

In passing, the ETA 2892A2 COSC movement has been faultless.

Never missed a beat in 10 yrs.

So i might yet just rehouse it.

 

I have also just received a Seagull ST2812 movement.

Which I may put in this case.

 

Thanks for the input.

If i make any progress i'll update.