AS1686/ST1686 Jewel Question

[akira7799]

Hi Everyone, 

I’m a “super-noob” and have a question regarding some jewels from an ST1686.

in the attached photo, what is this style of jewel cap called?

Also, are they easily sourced?  I just disassembled my first watch and found that most of the jewels and jewel caps were removed from the movement.  I’m looking for a good way to source replacements.

The parts diagram only shows complete bridges and main plates, so I can’t identify a part/part number to search.

Thanks for any help or insight,

Dave

Edited January 19 by akira7799
Spelling correction

[AndyGSi]

I don't think that is a jewel just a bush to support the centre seconds.

What jewels are missing?

[mikepilk]

1 hour ago, akira7799 said:

Also, are they easily sourced?  I just disassembled my first watch and found that most of the jewels and jewel caps were removed from the movement.  

You would remove cap jewels for cleaning, but not pressed in jewels. What is the movement, what jewels are missing ?

[mbwatch]

I just completed two of these movements and can confirm you are not missing a jewel. That piece is just a bushing for the center seconds. There might be other versions of the movement where they put a jewel there, and the screwed in plate would serve the purpose of making it easier to fit and change that part. But you just have a metal bush. You probably don't even need to bother removing that for cleaning. Just peg it out and be done.

My two were both 7 jewel versions but I believe it also came as a 17 jewel variant, maybe even a 21.

You say "most of the jewels" are missing. Do you have a photo of what else you think is missing besides the plate you pictured? Because you might be working with one of the low jewel variants.

[akira7799]

3 hours ago, AndyGSi said:

I don't think that is a jewel just a bush to support the centre seconds.

What jewels are missing?

@AndyGSi, you're absolutely correct.  That's me being a noob...I don't appear to be missing any.

3 hours ago, mikepilk said:

You would remove cap jewels for cleaning, but not pressed in jewels. What is the movement, what jewels are missing ?

@mikepilk, upon further review, I don't think I am.  I thought I was dealing with an eBay Frankenwatch, but it turns out I just can't read....

3 hours ago, mbwatch said:

I just completed two of these movements and can confirm you are not missing a jewel. That piece is just a bushing for the center seconds. There might be other versions of the movement where they put a jewel there, and the screwed in plate would serve the purpose of making it easier to fit and change that part. But you just have a metal bush. You probably don't even need to bother removing that for cleaning. Just peg it out and be done.

My two were both 7 jewel versions but I believe it also came as a 17 jewel variant, maybe even a 21.

You say "most of the jewels" are missing. Do you have a photo of what else you think is missing besides the plate you pictured? Because you might be working with one of the low jewel variants.

@mbwatch, you're 100% spot on.  I'm dealing with a 7-jewel ST1686.  I thought to myself when I opened this watch, "there's no way it 7, it has to be 17...must be a typo."  Clearly, I'm very wrong.  

Okay, so there are 2 two on the escapement (entry and exit), 4 jewels on on the balance incabloc style shock system, 1 for the impulse jewel.

It looks like I'm onto cleaning and re-assembly...any advice on train wheel bridge placement since you can't see the the train wheel pivots through the jewels?

Also, I need to find/make a click spring since it launched and is somewhere near Jupiter's moons by now. 

Edited January 19 by akira7799
Typos

[AndyGSi]

28 minutes ago, akira7799 said:

Also, I need to find/make a click spring since it launched and is somewhere near Jupiter's moons by now.

Don't know where in the world you are but you can either buy a lot of assorted springs like these and modify one to suit or buy the genuine part.

https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/filter/st-movement-parts

https://www.ebay.com/itm/116339185456?ff3=2&toolid=10044&customid=&lgeo=1&vectorid=229508&item=116339185456&ufes_redirect=true

+ many more

Edit

Unless you've got another movement you can take one from.

https://www.emmywatch.com/db/part/clickspring--430_529/standard--1686/

Edited January 19 by AndyGSi

[mbwatch]

39 minutes ago, akira7799 said:

Also, I need to find/make a click spring since it launched and is somewhere near Jupiter's moons by now. 

You should be able to find something in the assortment Andy recommended, even if you have to trim one to length.

A. Schild movements have the worst click springs. Always shepherd hook springs, held in shallow recesses, and usually requiring gymnastics to get the click hooked under tension. These ones on the 1686 are particularly egregious because they tuck way in against the center wheel.

Still, buy yourself a pack of strong magnets, glue them to a ruler and use your magnet wand to search. You will probably find it, and every other bit of ferrous metal you ever dropped.

I'm wearing a watch right now with the same 7 jewel movement.

[GPrideaux]

I'm paranoid about losing springs. Whenever I'm removing or installing any kind of spring I work through clear plastic (an opened out zip-lock bag) so if the spring does try to fly it'll be contained. I'm sure that'll change as I get more experience but I'll be continuing with it for now as it has saved my knees on more than one occasion.

[mbwatch]

1 hour ago, akira7799 said:

It looks like I'm onto cleaning and re-assembly...any advice on train wheel bridge placement since you can't see the the train wheel pivots through the jewels?

It won't be as difficult as you are imagining. The movement is well built and fits together nicely. Just go slow, line up the tallest pivot first (4th wheel) then the 3rd then the escape and just nudge them with tweezers until they fall in. In all likelihood the 4th and 3rd wheels will seat without needing any manipulation and you'll only need to poke the escape wheel a bit.

Just test their free spin a few times before you screw down the bridge and as you screw it down.

I really enjoyed working on this movement (except the click as mentioned). And on the two I did which were watches fished out of a job lot junk box, both cleaned up and easily reached 280° amplitude, nice and flat despite not having a jeweled train and on the original mainsprings.

Edited January 19 by mbwatch