Jump to content

Should I bend these inflexible mesh strap ends?

mrkrsl
 Share

Recommended Posts

mrkrsl Member

mrkrsl

Posted
Posted (edited)

I just tried this milanese bracelet I got for a different watch on my old Seamaster and, at first glance, I think it looks great. However, the strap is inflexible for the first 12mm or so where the spring bar keeper is welded. This makes the watch fit oddly. The flat areas extend horizontally and create a slightly awkward gap above my wrist, like it has shoulders.

It’s actually the second mesh bracelet I’ve had with this problem, so I figured others might have struggled with them.

I’m thinking about how to modify it. The welds are on the outer edge of the spring bar keeper. I wondered if I could clamp it in the vice and convince it to take on a slight angle. (In the picture with the coloured lines, I mean bend it downwards at B so the flat patch no longer extends to C.)

Any thoughts on how to improve it without ruining it?

PXL_20241221_175110312~2.jpg

PXL_20241222_172521348.jpg

PXL_20241221_174638767~2.jpg

PXL_20241221_174949994~3.jpg

Edited by mrkrsl
mrkrsl Member

mrkrsl

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
7 minutes ago, Klassiker said:

What about bending or filing away those four tabs (two each side) under the lugs?

Those control the alignment of the strap to the case. If they were removed or loosened the whole thing would pivot at the spring bar, opening up a big gap. I actually tightened them slightly so that it fitted better.

I think the design is just flawed, and I can't see it working as-is on any watch. Also, I have quite a large wrist. On a skinnier wrist it would look even worse.

16 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Any attempt to bend this type of strap could result in broken links so I'd advise against it.

Yeah, quite possibly. It might be the only chance it becomes usable though.

Edited by mrkrsl
typo
AndyGSi Distinguished Member

AndyGSi

Posted
Posted
3 minutes ago, mrkrsl said:

I think the design is just flawed, and I can't see it working as-is on any watch. Also, I have quite a large wrist. On a skinnier wrist it would look even worse.

The problem is they're just not designed for that type of case with those lugs.

  • Like 1
mrkrsl Member

mrkrsl

Posted
  • Author
Posted
1 minute ago, AndyGSi said:

The problem is they're just not designed for that type of case with those lugs.

Yes, you may be right. They might work with a much smaller case, like a ladies' size, so the flat parts are naturally on the flat top of the wrist. That said, a smaller case would have a tighter circumference, and the curve might not match. Also, it's an 18mm strap. Who knows? It's definitely a good advert for straight ends.

mrkrsl Member

mrkrsl

Posted
  • Author
Posted

An update, in case anyone else has this niche issue.

I taped it up, put it in the vice and carefully leant on it with my little steel staking block. I managed to angle the welded strip relative to the spring bar tube. The result is that the angle falls sooner, maybe 2mm from the end of the lugs. It's a significant improvement. 

The mesh is pretty robust. I caused it no other injuries.

PXL_20241223_140208080.jpg

  • Like 2
mrkrsl Member

mrkrsl

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 minutes ago, RichardHarris123 said:

Sorry but I couldn't live with that crease. 

Ha, yes. In 'real life' it doesn't quite catch the light so strongly, and it's a lot less obvious from a face-on view, but I take your point!

  • Like 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • tonydagee
      Calendar work certina 25-651

      By tonydagee · Posted

      Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • tIB
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By tIB · Posted

      Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • Malocchio
      Unusual Seiko dial damage

      By Malocchio · Posted

      I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • nickelsilver
      A lathe with indexing that won't break the bank?

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • SidKop
      Opinions on Seiko's 4R and 6R movement quality from those more able to judge

      By SidKop · Posted

      I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...