Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have an old Orient ladies watch that is totaly dead.

It has some sentimental value to my vife, so I somehow need to make i work again.

The quartz movement is a Orient C7710, and as Orient is a subsidiary brand os Seiko, I was thinking that there might be a equivalent movement from Seiko I could use as a replacement.

So my question is, if anyone know of a movement i could use insted of the C7710?

I know it's a long shot.

But I am thankful for any help or sugestions.

(The pictures is of the Orient C7710 movement)

 

IMG_7134.jpg

IMG_7135.jpg

Posted
12 minutes ago, AndyGSi said:

Limited parts are available for these if you know what's wrong with it?

I have no indication to what is wrong with the movement.

So it would be a blind guess.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hi, well you've got this far dismantling so you may as well take another few steps. Firstly though, be extremely careful with the coil, I've marked this in red,

20241027_224100.thumb.jpg.b17b98c65138a8cfdd2d816d851d3e19.jpg

One slip of the screwdriver onto this then it really would be dead, the copper wired are extremely fine and so so easy to break.

So my first point is the battery positive contact looks either bent, broken or just snagged up20241027_223529.jpg.ccbb1af36cded1b306f4a9c178fa0c8a.jpg

That needs to spring into place so the side of the battery makes contact, you can see at the bottom centre of the picture where this positive connection is made to the circuit board.

Pretty obvious, make sure you are using the correct size battery, go for good quality not something from poundland, and if you have a tester make sute the battery is good at 1.5v, I've had bad new batteries before.

If the watch still won't run, carefully remove these two screws20241027_223750.thumb.jpg.ca1a571c5ae9876195ff56d7285be0fc.jpg

A common point of failure is where the battery negative terminal makes contact with the circuit board, that's the terminal visible at the bottom af the battery compartment, see if the contact point is clean. Removing these two screws should enable the circuit board to come out. The screw on the left will be longer as it also clamps the circuit board to the coil contacts, I will say again though, be extremely careful with that coil, taking that screw out so close to the coil is where many watches meet their end. Cut a small piece of card and use some tape to cover the coil, don't stick tape directly onto the coil.

 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...