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I've had a look at what I have and compared it to what I can see on a video of the automatic works being dismantled and I'm happy at this stage I'm not missing some part that supposed to slip that I'd overlooked. Everything links as I thought it did. I suspect we have similar parts lists. Just pictures of the parts with a number beside them. 1520 is, according to Best Fit, a coupling clutch. I suspect the reverser wheels are what it's labelled as 1520. The reason I'm ready to question the complete vallidity of the document is because it has a part numbered 2574 and I'll be damned if I can find that in either Ebauche or Best Fitt (the pdf copies I have anyway). I think the wheel that connects the automatic works to the barrel should be 1482, the driving gear, it's either that or 1481 which would be the reduction wheel. Have to say: it would be really handy if they did those parts documents as an exploded diagram. Yup, auto bridge isn't in place yet. But weight turns reverse wheels, reverse wheel turns reduction, turns drive gear which turns ratchet. So the mainspring has to slip, and logically both have to as the inter doesn't, and if they don't the weight can't turn. The movement is currently in it's holder with face and hands attached so I've examined it while winding. Both ratchet wheels turn happily, the intermediate wheel/ ratchet winding wheel/ idler gear is doing its job. I'll see what happens if I take out that inter wheel and wind it a little later. -
Does your parts list actually have the description as mine just shows the parts. Is 1520 the gear that sits in the auto bridge to couple to the barrel. You could try letting the power down and then remove the idler gear between the 2 barrels and see how it winds then. I presume you're doing all this at the moment without the auto bridge in place. -
By HectorLooi · Posted
I love my brass tweezers and use them for 90% of my work. I like that brass is soft and does not scratch parts and it seems to grip parts better than stainless steel. And brass is also non-magnetic, which really helps when working on quartz movements. However, brass is a little too weak for jobs like pulling back yoke springs. So I thought of upgrading to bronze. But I can't seem to find curved bronze tweezers. And Cousins price for a pair of Bergeon straight bronze tweezers is around £45. A couple of months back I had the idea of swapping out the carbon fibre tips of my tweezers and putting in bronze tips. And that is what I did. I got a piece of 2.0mm bronze sheet from AliExpress and cut out 2 curved tips and replaced the carbon fibre tips. I'll probably thin down the tip further gradually to a point where it still has strength to draw back thick yoke springs. -
Ah, well that's a relief, though the parts document does list a 1520 which is a coupling clutch. This threw me for a while (it's a quiet day in the office) until I realised I couldn't see a listing for the reverser wheels. So, we're back to the mainspring should slip in the barrel. It can really only be one of three things (that I'm aware of) mainspring 'coned' and pressing slightly on the lid the kink, close to the end of the spring, which puts a sort of a self lock grip on the spring and may not allow the spring to release enough there to allow slipping quantity of lubrication, either not enough, or too little Two of those require new mainsprings, which aren't readily available, though I may post a query about alternative mainspring sizes. The third, will more grease or less be required? The word breaking in breaking grease suggests more means more breaking?
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The idler gear I'm referring too is the one between the 2 barrel wheels. These movements just rely on the spring slipping to prevent over winding.
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