Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all, have bought an old 6309-7040 for restoration, and will be replacing the crown gasket. It appears as though the gasket is already missing, but I'm not sure. I've dug around with the dental tools to see if I can fish anything out, but can't seem to find anything in there. 

That's actually a bit irritating, as I was going to use the location of the old gasket to figure out how/where to install the new one. 

Is there meant to be a channel inside the crown, or does the gasket just sit around the pole where the stem screws in?

Any advice would be much appreciated!


IMG_20230906_134202(1).jpg.f452ed408b1eaf1b65c2891ba0183d7c.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

For anyone searching for the same answer in the future, I figured it out. The crown gasket is located in a groove just below the threads. The old one was still in my crown, but was rock hard and difficult to see.

I've highlighted the groove in this image.
image.png.7d9436db6ab4e4e9821786a75164d2d5.png

And here's the old gasket next to the new replacement. The part number for the gasket is 0k0240b0a but my local supplier had it as OkO24ObOa
IMG_20230923_170846.thumb.jpg.da82a963311fac7746a2fcce8c607e44.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

If you've never done it before and can't find any good resources, replacing this gasket is a real pain in the arse. I tried a lot of different methods and spent probably a good 45 minutes on this, but the gasket would just fold up into the bottom of the crown and (due to it being covered in gasket grease) would just spin around when I tried to coax it back up.

To prevent the gasket from bunching up in the bottom, I tried to install it with the full crown stem installed, but there wasn't enough room to get the gasket past the spring on the lower half. Then I tried using just the lower half of the stem with the spring removed.

IMG_20230925_122154.jpg.29ab23097b96cf632245729eec79da66.jpg

This allowed enough room to slide the gasket past, and to use a thin piece of pegwood to get it down past the thread. The wide end of the stem was enough to prevent the gasket from bunching up at the bottom, and was actually useful by unscrewing the stem and using the end to "pull up" any parts of the gasket that got too low. Within a couple of seconds I had it in place.

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...