Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
1 hour ago, rehajm said:

I don’t know what it’s worth but I know what I paid 😜. Thanks- it may have to wait a while- my parts trays are full at the moment…

I suggest you pop in an ebay search. If it runs or you can get it running then from your comment i think you may have scored a win 👍 .

Posted (edited)
5 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

I suggest you pop in an ebay search. If it runs or you can get it running then from your comment i think you may have scored a win 👍 .

I see what you mean. Yes the  tg says it is a good runner keeping very good time. Does ‘Even a blind squirrel can find a nut’ need UK translation? Where’s Susie Dent when you need her?…

I will report there were some stunning bargains the day I won this lot. I watched two Pepsi Rolex come up in a smaller London house - one sold for a single bid at less than half the going rate, the other went unbid. Out of my league but would have covered my horology expenses for a long time…

Tip: It was Thanksgiving in the US and likely there were no Americans to bid…

Edited by rehajm
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/6/2022 at 10:57 AM, nickelsilver said:

The Generale Ressorts book shows a 13"' (ligne) Smiths movement, which this one is, as using a spring 1.60 x 0.135 x 660 in a ring 14.5mm diameter. 0.17 seems really thick for a 13"' movement, but it is a pin lever (and not a very tall spring), and GR does have some errors in the book. It's not uncommon to find springs far off the original size that have been used in the past to get the watch going, which might explain the height difference.

 

For a spring that should work according to your measurements Cousins has GR ref 3398 1.30 x 0.17 x 520 x15, which should be fine (and cheap at 7 pounds).

 

 

An update for anyone following...the GR recommended 4585 1.6 height looked lovely in the barrel but did not allow the barrel cover to close...fortunately I purchased both and the 3398 referenced spring, while looking a bit wrong sized in barrel, at least allows for the barel to be closed...

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 12/9/2022 at 7:55 AM, Neverenoughwatches said:

Oooooo please can i have at the military, a W10 ? Just had a look Alnwick, a bit far from me but next time I'm up in Newcastle I will drop in.

Absolutely Jon , that would be great and appreciated by all members. Thank you.

I've put that mainspring calculator in my cloud storage, so feel free to download it.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/17noK3_STuT7pQCAqFjIpUyZ4XweRyGdK/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=117325986396951414363&rtpof=true&sd=true

Enjoy!

  • Thanks 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Hello all, just disassembling to service, but I can’t figure out the working of the calendar work…it’s not operational the jumper and spring are ok, but the operation of the driving wheel has me at a loss. I can’t see a cam to drive anything. Is something damaged or missing? Help please!
    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...