Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I bought an old mantel clock as a practice piece. It might be based on a Smiths car clock movement, I'm not sure.

DSC_1697.thumb.JPG.0560774607caee23364669988683fa8c.JPG

DSC_1695.thumb.JPG.9e1c522d6654fee8fbc018037ad07f03.JPG

These have the feature of having relatively soft plated pivots so there was plenty to get on with. It is scratched and rusty in parts so I'm not worried about experimenting on it. One notable issue was the escapement which did not drop to lock on the exit pallet. Whilst there is wear to the escapement wheel tips the entry pallet did lock so there was some uneveness there between entry and exit that might not entirely be due to wear of the tips of the teeth. The escapement safety functions and pivots are OK. I showed the movement to some friends at a local horological society and was advised that it looks like the pallets might have been moved. Given that is is a non functioning clock and I have another scrap ABEC platform to play with I thought I'd have a play

I made a little brass heatsink, and measured the pallet from the back of the fork

DSC_1689.thumb.JPG.bd45887829e33f28739cfd624fd5da83.JPG

DSC_1684.thumb.JPG.e0eb1c164cedb9bff19320ad1ab988e0.JPG

I started gently heating the warmer until I could feel the shellac was soft, using a mini bunsen on yellow flame. I did put a fibreglass mat on the bench first for heat protection! First attempt and the pallet was not quite straight. I was aiming to increase the depth by 0.10 mm. I managed 0.08mm

DSC_1690.thumb.JPG.8863a546522502df95f16a685260f647.JPG

And gave it a try. Still not quite locking, but an improvement from fully impacting the impulse face to just meeting the end of it.

I repeated the process and pulled it out another 0.05mm

DSC_1694.thumb.JPG.5c3932bed51e51d1f0cf0936cef0dfd8.JPG

Now it drops to lock at a depth similar to the entry pallet.

I set the banking pins to give approximately equal total lock.

DSC_1693.thumb.JPG.ff730b160ab8667654f22fe4bb476b71.JPG

1445583707_DSC_1691(2).thumb.JPG.df76143b6e1e798a1df40d6262ef82a8.JPG

A quick clean and I popped it back in.  The movement runs even at a low wind :Smiths car clock movt

Having succeeded in my initial objective- to learn a new technique - I'm doubtful whether it was the correct solution. I suspect that I'm compensating for wear to the escapement wheel.  That said, it was an interesting experiment and as it turned out, quite straightforward.

Next stop, check it's in beat. It sounds OK and self starts so no a bad start. 

Edited by Boz
Added photos
  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Believe the relume (not a fan) was done a long time after the damage. 
    • I can only think of some chemical reaction to reluming
    • I have a little milling attachment for my WW lathe, but very rarely use it and not for wheel and pinion cutting. For that I use a small Sixis 101 milling machine. I normally do direct dividing, but sometimes have to do an odd count and use the universal index which also fits on the Sixis.   Back in the day when I didn't have a mill, I would cut gearing on my Schaublin 102. It has a universal dividing attachment which fits the back of the spindle. Both it and the one for the Sixis are 60:1 ratio, and with the set of 4  index plates I can do almost any division. When I've had to do a strange high count prime number, I print a disc with the needed division and just place the plunger on the dot. Any position error is reduced by a factor of 60 so still plenty accurate.   The machines are a mess in the pics as I'm in the process of making a batch of barrels for a wristwatch 🙃.   This is the Sixis. The head can also be placed vertically, as can the dividing spindle.   Dividing plates. The smaller ones fit another dividing spindle.   Universal divider for the Sixis. I put it together with parts from an odd Sixis spindle that takes w20 collets, like the Schaublin 102, and a dividing attachment from a Schaublin mill.     The dividing attachment for the 102. The gear fits in place of the handwheel at the back of the headstock.   And the little milling attachment for the WW lathe. I just set it on the slide rest to illustrate the size, you can see from the dust on it it really doesn't get used much. I think only when I change bearing in the head, to kiss the collet head seat (grinding wheel still in the milling attachment).
    • I read a lot about the quality (or lack thereof) of Seiko's 4R, 6R, 8L  movements...or more specifically the lack of regulation from the factory. Especially when compared to similar priced manufactures using SW200's or ETA's. I thought I'd ask those more in the know, do the 4R's and 6R's deserve their bad reputation, is it fairly easy for someone with minimal skills (or better yet a trained watch mechanic) to dial in these movements to a more acceptable performance.    For background I spent more on a 1861 Speedy years ago, expecting that the advertised 0-15s/d  would probably perform more like 5-7s/d. In reality it's been closed to 2-4s/d. 
×
×
  • Create New...