Just getting started. Waiting on some tools to arrive, but I was able to successfully get a watch running better.

[thor447]

Hello forum!  Aside from my new member introduction, I've not been able to contribute much of anything yet to the website.  I've recently gotten bit by the watch repair bug and am waiting on some tools to arrive that will allow me to get started on my journey.  I've been consuming a lot of instructional videos, and thus far have watched and re-watched levels 1-3 of Marks courses on his website.  While I'm waiting for various things to come in (mostly lubricants and a couple of odds & ends), my timegrapher arrived in the mail.  

I put a few of my current watches on it and let them run in for a while, and found that all but one seem to be running pretty well.  Oddly enough, my newest watch that I bought on a whim about 6 months ago, a Seiko SRPE37K1 'King Samurai' didn't look so great when I put it on the timegrapher.  It has a 4R36 movement and I double checked the lift angle online to make sure I was setting the machine correctly.  I bought this watch brand new (I know I paid retail, and thus overpaid!), and you would think that it would run pretty well.  I rotate my watches and probably only wear this one once a week, so I'm usually setting the time and date as part of my morning routine.  I never noticed that it wasn't keeping very good time, as it was always on point on any given day.

Here is the results of the initial reading:

It wasn't any better in any other position.  While I could certainly return the watch to the dealer and have it looked at for free, this is something that I'm trying to teach myself how to do so I took it as an opportunity to tackle my first project.  After a bit of work (they make it look so quick and easy online) I was able to get the beat error adjusted to zero.  I then set off to get the rate corrected.  The pic below shows the watch showing a really good readout after I got it dialed in (in the face down position), but obviously it would change somewhat when tested in other positions.

I tried my best to find a happy medium between face up, face down, and crown forward positions.  Sadly I forgot to take a photo when I completed this task, but I got the beat error to between 0 and 0.3 between all three positions, and the rate from -4s/d to +9s/d between the three positions.  I think I did pretty well considering I didn't accidentally stab the hairspring or otherwise damage the watch during this work.  

A question for the more experienced people on here, I understand that this is a 4R36 and not a high-end movement, but do you think that a 240 amplitude is acceptable?  I would think for a recently purchased new watch that it would be higher.  I also understand that even though I purchased this brand new, it may not necessarily mean that the watch is in perfect working order.  I suppose that if the consensus is that the amplitude is low, this watch would be a good candidate for me to service.  I have a few movements recently purchased off eBay, and a couple of non-runner Seiko's that I picked up locally very cheap that I am going to be using for my first full rebuilds.

Thanks all!

[dadistic]

I don't think 240 is too low for a Seiko. They tend not to have high amplitudes. If the timekeeping (especially on the wrist) is OK then it probably doesn't need attention.

Especially for a first time servicing a watch. You may find that after servicing, if you are not experienced, that the amplitude will be even lower   It takes practice to learn how to correctly oil pivots, etc, and excess or not enough oil will certainly affect amplitude.

Good luck with your new journey!

[thor447]

1 hour ago, dadistic said:

I don't think 240 is too low for a Seiko. They tend not to have high amplitudes. If the timekeeping (especially on the wrist) is OK then it probably doesn't need attention.

Especially for a first time servicing a watch. You may find that after servicing, if you are not experienced, that the amplitude will be even lower   It takes practice to learn how to correctly oil pivots, etc, and excess or not enough oil will certainly affect amplitude.

Good luck with your new journey!

Thank you!  I know what you mean, in theory.  I've seen enough video and instructors online talking about proper oil amounts for pivots, jewel settings, etc.  All of my knowledge is theoretical right now, but I think I'll have a good starting off point.  I'm hopeful soon I'll be able to recognize when I may over oil something, but as with all things, practice makes perfect.  I may be able to tell that I've overdone it, but learning the actual technique to do it correctly will only come with time and repetition.  I'm looking forward to the process though.  I've got several years of gunsmithing work under my belt, and I'm thinking that it some of the skills I've learned doing that work will transition well to watchmaking, first and foremost is patience! 

[Neverenoughwatches]

3 hours ago, thor447 said:

Hello forum!  Aside from my new member introduction, I've not been able to contribute much of anything yet to the website.  I've recently gotten bit by the watch repair bug and am waiting on some tools to arrive that will allow me to get started on my journey.  I've been consuming a lot of instructional videos, and thus far have watched and re-watched levels 1-3 of Marks courses on his website.  While I'm waiting for various things to come in (mostly lubricants and a couple of odds & ends), my timegrapher arrived in the mail.  

I put a few of my current watches on it and let them run in for a while, and found that all but one seem to be running pretty well.  Oddly enough, my newest watch that I bought on a whim about 6 months ago, a Seiko SRPE37K1 'King Samurai' didn't look so great when I put it on the timegrapher.  It has a 4R36 movement and I double checked the lift angle online to make sure I was setting the machine correctly.  I bought this watch brand new (I know I paid retail, and thus overpaid!), and you would think that it would run pretty well.  I rotate my watches and probably only wear this one once a week, so I'm usually setting the time and date as part of my morning routine.  I never noticed that it wasn't keeping very good time, as it was always on point on any given day.

Here is the results of the initial reading:

It wasn't any better in any other position.  While I could certainly return the watch to the dealer and have it looked at for free, this is something that I'm trying to teach myself how to do so I took it as an opportunity to tackle my first project.  After a bit of work (they make it look so quick and easy online) I was able to get the beat error adjusted to zero.  I then set off to get the rate corrected.  The pic below shows the watch showing a really good readout after I got it dialed in (in the face down position), but obviously it would change somewhat when tested in other positions.

I tried my best to find a happy medium between face up, face down, and crown forward positions.  Sadly I forgot to take a photo when I completed this task, but I got the beat error to between 0 and 0.3 between all three positions, and the rate from -4s/d to +9s/d between the three positions.  I think I did pretty well considering I didn't accidentally stab the hairspring or otherwise damage the watch during this work.  

A question for the more experienced people on here, I understand that this is a 4R36 and not a high-end movement, but do you think that a 240 amplitude is acceptable?  I would think for a recently purchased new watch that it would be higher.  I also understand that even though I purchased this brand new, it may not necessarily mean that the watch is in perfect working order.  I suppose that if the consensus is that the amplitude is low, this watch would be a good candidate for me to service.  I have a few movements recently purchased off eBay, and a couple of non-runner Seiko's that I picked up locally very cheap that I am going to be using for my first full rebuilds.

Thanks all!

Seikos are known for not having a particularly high amplitude, although this does seem a little under for a new watch. There are some knowledgeable Seiko fans here that will have a better idea than me as i mostly tinker around with old swliss brands. Well done with your adjustments though, and looking at your watch the minute hand over the hour hand makes the two together look likeca little space rocket .  funny

[thor447]

1 hour ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

looking at your watch the minute hand over the hour hand makes the two together look likeca little space rocket .  funny

Haha, it sure does.  That's funny.  Thanks again for the info.  I'll probably go tinker with that watch once I've got some of the project watches coming in up and running.  Being that I'm brand new, that will be a good amount of time still, but by then hopefully by then I'll have 5 or 6 under my belt and will begin to settle in and be little bit more comfortable working on a watch.  I'd like to get some old Swiss movements in to add to the list, but I just didn't want to spend the money right now on higher grade project watches until I get a few under my belt.  I'm new to the watch repair game and have been reading about what to look for, and what to look out for with regards to buying projects watches off of places like ebay.  I'm still a bit nervous buying something for $100 or more without seeing it in person first.  I think I'm going to visit some of my local flea markets to see if there is anyone selling old watches.  Nevertheless, I'll have my eyes open for potential future projects now.

[Neverenoughwatches]

8 hours ago, thor447 said:

I'd like to get some old Swiss movements in to add to the list, but I just didn't want to spend the money right now on higher grade project watches. 

There are plenty of swiss brands at the low end of the price range here in the UK. Especially if you are prepared to take a little risk you can strike lucky and pick up some real bargains. Things may be different then in your part of the world. But if only looking to learn and develop handling skills on practise pieces then its not so important that they have to run. You can figure out the basics from them, then when you are ready to move on cheaper runners that just need servicing would be a good step up. Get as many tips as you can for buying on ebay. Important things to look out for are obvious missing parts, a missing winder is one of the main things i try to avoid unless its something i really want and am prepared to invest extra cost and time. Here you know you already have the added cost of a stem, so this will either be a new old stock stem or a donor purchase. But also with the missing stem you can have the added risk that it was taken to use on another watch making this a donor watch that possibly has other major issues such as a broken balance staff that is not a beginner's fix. Hairspring damage is another problem to look out for, i like to get in close with a magnifying glass to try to assess that as best i can. Another detail to watch is the dial, dials to me are everything. A poor condition dial can be difficult to rectify.  If just a clean up then thats fine but any kind of scratch or scuff damage then for a beginner and even a good amateur virtually impossible to fix. Hope some of this helps. Any questions you have on repair post them up with plenty of photos so helpers can see what and how the watches are. Picking out names numbers letters symbols etc. for identification is important.  

[thor447]

8 hours ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

There are plenty of swiss brands at the low end of the price range here in the UK. Especially if you are prepared to take a little risk you can strike lucky and pick up some real bargains. Things may be different then in your part of the world. But if only looking to learn and develop handling skills on practice pieces then its not so important that they have to run. You can figure out the basics from them, then when you are ready to move on cheaper runners that just need servicing would be a good step up. Get as many tips as you can for buying on ebay. Important things to look out for are obvious missing parts, a missing winder is one of the main things i try to avoid unless its something i really want and am prepared to invest extra cost and time. Here you know you already have the added cost of a stem, so this will either be a new old stock stem or a donor purchase. But also with the missing stem you can have the added risk that it was taken to use on another watch making this a donor watch that possibly has other major issues such as a broken balance staff that is not a beginner's fix. Hairspring damage is another problem to look out for, i like to get in close with a magnifying glass to try to assess that as best i can. Another detail to watch is the dial, dials to me are everything. A poor condition dial can be difficult to rectify.  If just a clean up then thats fine but any kind of scratch or scuff damage then for a beginner and even a good amateur virtually impossible to fix. Hope some of this helps. Any questions you have on repair post them up with plenty of photos so helpers can see what and how the watches are. Picking out names numbers letters symbols etc. for identification is important.  

This is great advice and very much appreciated.  Thank you.

[Neverenoughwatches]

1 hour ago, thor447 said:

This is great advice and very much appreciated.  Thank you.

Not a problem Thor.  Wow that is definitely something you dont say every day or anyday for that matter. Have i just laid out a favour for the strongest avenger. Just caught myself brushing my shoulder. If you need any help mate sorting out aliens or super villians just give me the nod and I'll be there . And if you fancy returning the favour  then put in a good word for me with Black Widow. She is like wow just wow. Think i need a cold shower.

[thor447]

3 minutes ago, Neverenoughwatches said:

Not a problem Thor.  Wow that is definitely something you dont say every day or anyday for that matter. Have i just laid out a favour for the strongest avenger. Just caught myself brushing my shoulder. If you need any help mate sorting out aliens or super villians just give me the nod and I'll be there . And if you fancy returning the favour  then put in a good word for me with Black Widow. She is like wow just wow. Think i need a cold shower.

Oddly enough, it is a username that I've used for many years.  It was a name I came up with as a joke about a friend of mine from many years ago, Thorsten.  He created a username on a website we were both on that was a play on my name.  I can assure you that I was unaware of the Thor comic character when I came up with it!

[Neverenoughwatches]

2 hours ago, thor447 said:

Oddly enough, it is a username that I've used for many years.  It was a name I came up with as a joke about a friend of mine from many years ago, Thorsten.  He created a username on a website we were both on that was a play on my name.  I can assure you that I was unaware of the Thor comic character when I came up with it!

Aw. I was getting all excited as well. Black Widow has no idea what she is missing