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Good evening everyone, hope we are all managing quarantine fever reasonably well.:blink: Today I'm going to briefly cover my 1938 Westfield Art Deco watch I recently completed. It began with an urge to acquire a nice Deco watch. I won a handsome Hamilton, but sadly the seller had lost the watch. Thankfully they refunded my money and the hunt continued. I finally came across this Westfield powered by a Bulova 10aw. The price was perfect because it was sold without a crown. I tracked down a donor movement with a crown that didn't look too ratty and purchased it as well to serve as a parts donor, wise choice as you'll see. The parts donor arrived first. It only needed a clean and lube to get it ticking away 

Parts donor...

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After a delay, the watch arrived. It looked thousand times better in hand than it did online, thankfully. It was fitted with a truly pristine Crystal that surely must be a recent replacement. The case doesn't seem to have any base metal showing through. I promptly opened the watch and lifted the dial and movement from the case.

The Westfield as it arrived...

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A close-up of the barrel bridge showing the little crescent moon date code signifying the watch was made in 1938...

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Looking closely, I found that the crown and stem weren't just missing, it was broken, snapped off at the winding pinion. I removed some of the keyless works to get at the stem remnant. After fishing the piece out, I pulled the crown and stem from the donor.

Winding stem switcheroo...

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I then attempted to give the mainspring a wind and see how the watch performed. After barely 2 turns I heard a crunching noise indicative of a broken mainspring. Thankfully the donor's was perfect. I swapped out the barrels put it back together and gave it another wind. Off the balance went and the mainspring wound smoothly and stopped at the end. 

Sprung spring:wacko:...

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I put the dial and hands back on, gave the dial a light wash down to remove any excess grime. I put it all back together, added a new leather strap and here she is. Very excited to be wearing an 82 year old watch that looks this good!:wub:

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Edited by FLwatchguy73
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    • We need photos, age and price probably just a rough estimate. 
    • Hello all, I am looking for guidance on some Cyma watches I am selling please...Year made approx and possible worth if you could? Also I have a man's Cyma that has numbers stamped around the case where the strap bars are and wonder what they are please. Thanks for and help given. Steve
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds, England. 
    • I agree with hector it's probably the regulator curve, it almost always is on these movements. So i work on these movements a lot and iv'e managed to fairly consistently get them running at like 50 degrees more amplitude than that with deltas in the 3 range and on the wrist deviations of sub 1 second a day. They ALWAYS require work to get there though. The main thing is shaping the regulator curve and this is really finnicky and definitely something you practice on a movement you don't care about when you're new (I'm still new) but if the hairspring is flat and the coils are evenly spaced and the regulator curve is properly shaped and it's pretty wild how accurate these movements can get.  But, it does sound like your regulator curve maybe needs a bit of reshaping. You can easily mess up the watch learning to do this so warning if you don't want to live with your current results but I"m not an expert, it's just speculation but there's a pretty easy way to check.  This is a good video showing how to see if your terminal curve is properly shaped. Just make sure the regulator pins are open when you test this.   He takes off the balance wheel to shape it. I do it with the movement disassembled but the balance on the mainplate. I use a homemade tool from a sharpened dental pic to do the adjustments (Tiny tiny TINY adjustments) and i use the regulator pins themselves to sorta brace the spring against to bend it very tiny amounts and just keep checking it by moving the regulator arm down it till it stops moving the hairspring. Taking off the balance wheel over and over again is a good way to slip and destroy your hairspring and will make the process way slower. I try to avoid removing the balance wheel from the cock it on these movements due to how difficult it is to get the hairspring stud back into the balance cock. It's super easy to slip and twist your spring then you got way worse problems.  Since these are mass manufactured and unadjusted the regulator curve is NEVER perfect but once you learn how to reshape them it's pretty easy to do and you can get REALLY low deltas with really low positional error and pretty remarkable accuracy.  Definitely with it powered down and the balance on the movement with both balance jewels in place look across the spring to see if it's perfectly flat, then check the regulator curve how he does it in the video. I would bet money even if it's not your main issue the regulator curve is not ideal also. 
    • Thanks. Damn, first breakage. This picture of the movement is from the sale listing.  
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