Jump to content

A nice Rivett....and some of Mr. Playtner's stuff

measuretwice

By measuretwice
in Tools & Equipment

 Share

Recommended Posts

measuretwice WRT Addict

measuretwice

Posted
Posted (edited)

Here's an 8mm Rivett Watchmakers lathe I picked up awhile ago.   Rivett was a really high end lathe maker.  Started by a Canuck who headed to US to find his fortune, the Faneuil Watch Tool Co was founded in 1984 (name changed to Rivett in 1905).  I bought the watchmakers lathe kit a few years ago from an estate.  It was owned by a watchmaker in Stouffville Ont and the accessory kit is really complete including dividing plates, a Hardinge polisher, bezel chuck and a wheel cutting attachment (shop made). 

As well there is a large selection of wheel cutters, one set visible on wood dowels and the other in a small wood box.  The box lid has a note saying they're from the late Mr Playtner, 1890, principal of a watchmaking school in Toronto.  The dates don't entirely make sense, as Playtner founded the Canadian Horological Institute in Toronto in 1890 (he was 25), Canada's first watchmaking school and he lived to 1943.  I'm guessing the Stouffville watchmaker acquired the items mid 20th century after Playtners' passing.  Apparently the school drew from afar and had at least one tie in to Rivett; its students won the top three awards from the Faneuil Watch Tool Company's 1897 competition.  He was also the author of "The Analysis of the Lever Escapement" which I gather is still relevant and cited today.

I've also got a 1897 Rivett 608 which which is arguably the preeminent instrument lathe of the time, or for that matter perhaps for all time: for example it would hold .0001" over 6 inches when new.  They were unpainted with polished castings and cost more than man's annual wage and were often found at Universities - mine came out the Cornell University Materials Engineering Lab.   My 608, made before the 1905 name change, has the Faneuil name plate.  As well they made a tool makers lathe, the 1020 which is comparable to the Monarch 10ee or Hardinge HLV.   

Anyway, enough about Rivett, I thought you guys would like to see the watchmakers lathe.  Any other Rivett owners out there?  feel free to post you pics here

 

rPfY5bd.jpg

 

l3bv7XG.jpg?1

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by measuretwice
  • Like 2
  • 2 months later...
Ottawaguy New Member

Ottawaguy

Posted
Posted

That is truly cool... a tool from Playtner’s school.  Playtner closed his school in 1913 but moved to Elgin, Illinois in 1921 and openned the Elgin Watchmakers’ College.  He retired in 1923, recommending William Samelius replace him as director.  He returned to his home in Kitchener, Ontario.  A relative noted that he became a bit odd as he aged.  A student watchmaker visited his home before he passed and was surprised to see the main floor set up as a complete classroom, all equipped. Playtner owned all the equipment at the CHI and I guess that after he passed away, his family sold it all.  Mind you, his will didn’t mention more than one lathe.  Check “Canada’s Master Watchmaker, Henry Playtner and the Canadian Horological Institute”  available from [email protected]

  • Like 2

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Ah, well there is the rub. I ordered a post and oscillating weight, but clicked on the wrong thing when adding the weight to the basket adding an automatic bridge. Ordered a weight, and it's somewhere in the ether after our customs and excise folks rejected it because of the documentation.  Yes, both springs inserted the same. "Is the idler gear ok", and here's why I posted to the newbie area: So, reading between the lines, and again correct me if I'm wrong here, the automatic winding mechanism will have an ideler gear, along with the reverse wheels, that prevents over-winding? There is nothing (that I'm aware of) between the crown pinion, crown wheel, and the ratchet wheels to prevent over-winding other than the mainsprings slipping in the barrels.  This is only the second automatic I've worked on. The other, a Vostok, had a very obvious mechanism.  I shall look at the automatic winding mechanism in a bit more detail when I've a bit more time. At the moment I'm taking a glance here now and then when work is dragging 😉 As ever, thank you for your help. Always appreciated.  
    • AndyGSi
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      If the weight was worn how does the post look as normally you'd have to replace both. There should be no real resistance at the end and just be able to keep on winding. Did you insert both springs the same and is the idler gear OK.
    • JohnL
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By JohnL · Posted

      Assembled and running well, I'm asking after the fact. I'm waiting on a new oscillating weight as this one was worn (they have a reputation for it apparently, no bearings). So I've been winding it by hand, but meeting quite a bit of resistance at the end, more than I think an automatic weight will overcome. It's not quite as sudden as a manual mechanism, but there's very little in it, certainly enough that I would be concerned about breaking something if I continued.
    • mbwatch
      Loose pinion

      By mbwatch · Posted

      Remove the cannon pinion from the dial side first. The "clip" you describe is sort of a metal tab some American companies designed their cannon pinions with in order to make it easier to tighten friction. If that is the problem, the solution is as simple as gently squeezing the tab with tweezers to bend it ever so slightly inward, while supporting the inside of the cannon pinion if possible (it may be harder to support inside since it does not have an open tip as a hollow tube) The cannon pinion should just pull straight off of the arbor on the dial side if you pull it straight up with tweezers. There's no jewel in danger of breaking and the arbor is thick so there isn't much risk of breaking the arbor. But when you are describing that the center wheel's pinion is not turning the arbor, is the pinion firmly attached to the center wheel? If you remove the center wheel and hold onto the rim of the wheel, does the pinion turn independently of the rest of the wheel? It should not.  I'm not sure if this was the case on older Waltham, but the pinion may be threaded onto the center wheel arbor and they are often loose. This was a safety mechanism for a broken mainspring and may just need to be tightened back down. I can't remember for sure, but these might be a reverse (left) thread instead of normal right. And does the entire arbor turn independently of the wheel? Also should not.
    • AndyGSi
      Reusing mainsprings in an automatic and slipping

      By AndyGSi · Posted

      You may get some extra friction on the barrel lid so may not slip as easy but I wouldn't think it's a problem. My suggestion would be to finish the assembly and see how it runs.
×
×
  • Create New...