What I mean is to use standard tube and crown, like 2.5mm tube for example. You will need to remove the existing tube or in some way to turn or file the part with the thread, then to put in 2.5mm tube and fix it in place. I don't know if the hole will have to be enlarged or if it is possible to just reshape the existing tube by removing the part with the thread from it. The new tube can be press fit wit some locktite for water tightness, or led soldered for example. I doubt it was a split stem, it has to be just screw-in crown, and the construction is similar to split stem. With standard tube, You will not need split stem, but regular stem that will be shortened to size. What I meant for the case and back is that watch cases polishing is separate, different craft that is not easy one. In my country only few people are good in this and I am not one of them. The main idea is not to change the shape of the cases, or keep them as close to the original look as possible. This includes never to round the edges and corners for example. Don't take me wrong, if You like it and it brings You joy, this is OK. But, the world is full with examples of not correctly done (ruined) cases. By the way, plated cases are the hardest thing to restore.

no This has been going on for about three years...perhaps a little longer.  So, I will probably revisit this in a year.  I am concerned that it will lose water resistance.  I test it to one atm only.  Enough to make it through a shower.

No bits of glass in the movement?

Sorry, I may be an old, grumpy fuddy duddy, but I disagree totally with the concept that fakes are ok under any circumstances. I can understand someone wanting to get a counterfeit movement to practice on before tackling the real thing, however it is still supporting illegal activity which can be used to fund other even more lucrative for the perpetrators of the crime. counterfeiting of any sort is illegal in all western societies as far as I can determine and is being cracked down on but still running rife. I don’t care what anyone says it is not a victimless crime. Tom

Always best to be careful and go the route you are most comfortable with. To be clear - the word ‘punch’ does sound quite violent however, when working with rollers - and those rollers being made of soft brass - it is best to only exert downwards pressure manually, whilst gently turning it, using an extremely small dome punch or even a pointed punch (in other words - not striking the punch with a hammer). I don't recommend doing this for the first time on a customer owned or otherwise important movement - Its definitely something to practice on though with a donor or scrap movement, it would be a great satisfying skill to learn and add to your arsenal. Gluing is not my favourite way forward, and I won’t recommend it as it is the proverbial kicking the can down the road (hope I don’t sound snobby - I don’t mean to) but I can understand why in certain circumstances this method would be adopted. Absolutely true - this is the biggest risk with attempting to use a staking set to tighten the hole. Very very risky.  Spot on!