Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hello everyone!

This is my first post here on WatchRepairTalk, and I wanted to share a project I've been working on—a DIY Watch Cleaning Machine that I designed and built myself. Since it's difficult to find a good-quality machine at a reasonable price, I decided to use my engineering skills and create one. Why not, right?

Look at a demonstration video on my instagram page. You can follow this page if you are interested in my watchmaking journey!
Demonstration video of Akrid the Watch Cleaning Machine

I named this machine after my alias from the Dutch watch forum, Akrid (which is also my alias here). It features three stations: one for cleaning and two for rinsing. The final cycle is for drying the watch parts, allowing the movement to be reassembled immediately after the cleaning process. I've been using it for two months now, and it's been working flawlessly! The cleaning results are far superior to what I used to get with my ultrasonic cleaner.

See the cleaning results here: 

Cleaning results of Akrid

I'd love to hear your thoughts on the design!

Akrid_design.png

Akrid_picture.png

  • Like 8
  • Thanks 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/5/2024 at 5:10 PM, htodd said:

How difficult was it to put together? Have you published any of the construction details like 3d printing files?

Thanks.

Sorry, I was not planning to publish the files as every 3D printer has different tolerances and quality. This keeps people asking me for updates and modifications. I had this problem a few times before with grabcad in the reprap era 🥲.

 

On 10/6/2024 at 4:12 AM, fclass308 said:

You might be able to make some money off of that.  👍

Well, we have a small test group in the Netherlands. I hope to finish this batch by the end of the year such that they can use the device. Let’s see how that goes,  however, considering the price I ask for one device, this would most likely not be worth doing all the time. Nevertheless, I like building a few, and also to see fellow hobbyist using my designed machine. 

Posted

Ah, I understand. I doubt I'd be able to source the same jars that you have. But if you're willing to share any info, let me know. My degree is in electrical engineering and I think I could probably figure something out. Now that I think of it, I could probably wire up a drill motor for part of it.

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On 10/11/2024 at 2:57 AM, htodd said:

Ah, I understand. I doubt I'd be able to source the same jars that you have. But if you're willing to share any info, let me know. My degree is in electrical engineering and I think I could probably figure something out. Now that I think of it, I could probably wire up a drill motor for part of it.

Do you have some guidance on the controller for a motor? It’s an interesting concept to engineer.

I’ve just finished a record cleaning machine for an US cleaner. So this just seems like a more elaborate device:

 

IMG_1314.thumb.jpeg.98e37f9f00a4711868e694a11c69c4a7.jpeg

Posted (edited)

Does your machine have any way to cover the jars when spinning off the excess liquid? 

If it hasn't, you might consider making something like there is on this Roth Freres machine (still in it's "original" 😀 state..).

17321713284346735662562416415720.jpg

17321713586247863611278692749452.jpg

Edited by caseback
Added option
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Love the machine, I was about to embark myself on making something similar. I am based in Amsterdam and would be great if I could pick your brains sometime on any pitfalls you encountered. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

For those looking to DIY a machine, I like to point out that the control electronics and firmware from the KiwiCleaner is freely available as open source hardware and software.  

this gives you tunable cycle speeds, oscillation times, durations, heater preheat/cooldown, spinoff etc.  it could be a good starting point. 

PCB and Gerbers:

https://github.com/futurexdesign/KiwiBoard  or order a PCB from preloaded gerbers at  https://www.pcbway.com/project/shareproject/KiwiBoard_Upgrade_Board_9522878a.html


Firmware: https://github.com/futurexdesign/KiwiBoardFirmware 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Righty ho, I re-serviced the chrono module and got a reasonable result with minimal loss of amplitude when not running the chrono and about 30 degrees loss when running. Great. The problem is now that the chrono (and movement) stops running after about a minute or so, a tap on the watch starts it running again. No issues with the movement running when the chrono is stopped. Going to service it yet again, obviously some residual issues with friction in the chrono module (Very frustrating - I wish there was some way of testing it as I go!) I also seem to have a problem with the cannon pinion where the movement is running continuously (with the chrono stopped) but it's losing significant time / stopping. This is one of those two piece ETA style with a driving wheel pressed over the cannon pinion, obviously arranged for driving the chrono module. I had no issues with this prior to service and just added a small amount of grease between the driving wheel and the centre cannon pinion as the technical guide required. What's the best way of tightening these up? I would like to replace it but I guess this is going to be hard to find as it is dedicated to the DD chrono movement. 
    • He uses the micrometer cap, but he leaves the spring out (you can see that in the video). If you leave the spring in, the spindle will move up as well (as shown by @Knebo).
    • Seems like he doesn't have the micrometer cap  attached to the spindle so he can only push down but cannot pull up? If the cap screws into the spindle I guess you don't need the spring? I only have a "normal" Seitz so I really have no idea. 
    • Do you have a part number for the bearing shim lock tool?
    • Yes in my opinion the 3/4HP is plenty but it’s your decision & yes it does come with speed control but foot operation so my reason for changing to potentiometer was because my leg shakes so it was like me revving the lathe & anyway I prefer to set the speed. I & a few others that I recommended the motor to run a Pultra 10mm lathe so if you have a 6 or 8mm B & L then it will be plenty, if you have seen any of my videos you will have seen that when using a graver I run quite slow without any problems. Dell
×
×
  • Create New...