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    • I did wonder about the feasibility of mixing two oils. I am guessing that 9010 / 9020 or HP500 / HP1300 would be a better mix than 9010 / HPxx. Some people might think that was heresy but I guess the only consequence is that you might have to service the movement again if you got a poor result. 
    • Believe me: I am aware how fortunate I am.
    • Yes, however, as you are just starting out, you can progress using Ronsonol lighter fluid (or equiv) to clean.  Use pegwood to clean all pivot bearings. Yes.  Some disagree with me.  I have many hundreds of dollars invested in multiple time graphers and vintage timing machines.  The phone app is just fine for a beginner. Probably just needs a good cleaning. My SWAG, is slim to none unless you own a 3D printer and can design and print a spacer Here is a re-cased Mickey Mouse watch I made using 3D printer...lol!!
    • Chances of fitting that movement into a modern case with pleasing results are not good unfortunately. Dial size, pinion height, the position of the stem relative to the thickness of the movement all play a role, so cases made for a specific movement are really only workable for that movement. If you have a lot of skill in 3D modeling you might find a way to make it work, but it would be a significant challenge. A case made for an ST36 would be gigantic in relation to the Benrus movement. A case made for something like a Seiko NH35 would be closer to a workable diameter, but most of those modern cases are made for automatic movements that are much thicker than vintage hand wound movements.
    • Thank you very much for the very helpful info, folks. A lot of reading to do! I do like the look of that ingersoll. I am in the UK, so I think moebius is more readily available than Elgin. I hear 8000 does the trick as a jack of all trades. Given the rather sorry state of the Benrus, if I get the movement to run (If wound, it ticks for about 2-5 seconds then stops. Give it a tap, it ruins again, then stops again), What are the chances that I'll be able to fit it into an ST36 case (perhaps with a 3d-printed adapter)? I don't think I'll have the spare cash to invest in case re-plating and dial re-finishing! I would really appreciate some info/links on how to clean the parts: is it achievable without a ultrasonic cleaner, or am I better off buying one and not wasting my time? Also, can I get away with a timegrapher app on pc/phone?
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