Jump to content

My Workbench....


mwilkes

Recommended Posts

I ended up using half of my garage as my wife threatened me with divorce when I attempted to create a work space in our bedroom (it has a north-facing bay window), but I digress.  I picked up a drafting desk that was headed for the landfill and removed the top and replaced it with cabinet-grade Birch plywood and a rail.  I also had to remove a footrest as it was originally intended to be used with a stool.  As it turns out, the height, width and depth is the same as commercially available units. A quick coat of paint on the base and I was set.  I also purchased the black storage unit from Ikea to store my tools and books.  The desk to the left was a Craigslist freebie that I use for my ultrasonic tank/cleaning.

post-38-0-03462500-1421526210_thumb.jpg

On another related note, I use espresso cups as movement covers.  They originally had a metal handle that I slipped off.  They work beautifully.

post-38-0-77082800-1421526421_thumb.jpg

PS: yes, it is usually this tidy (OCD induced :D ).  I can't work with chaos around me.

Happy watchmaking/breaking!

Roger

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Roger,

 

I like your "workshop"! To me, that's luxury mate! On a lighter note I tried to use the cups in the house and my wife was guarding them with a shotgun so I immediately went to plan B...purchase the real thing! As long as I don't touch her collection of China and whatnots she is happy! :)

 

Cheers,

 

Bob

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I really had to do something to my workshop.

There just wasn't enough space to store all my tools/parts.

This became so frustrating (things were laying on the floor in the end) that I finally pushed myself to tackle the issue.

After a visit to Ikea and some time to put everything together, it's ready.

You can see the result below :-) Sorry, no 'before' picture available.

I'm really happy with the result!

post-371-0-83250800-1423128263_thumb.jpg

post-371-0-19689800-1423128203_thumb.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Just a note for those who come searching for information on this topic in the future.  I did eventually find the Mark's video on how to replace these springs, as someone observed, he does in fact make the replacement look easy.  (It actually is relatively easy once you have the knack of it.) If you're enrolled in one of Mark's online courses, the demonstration of how to replace this spring is in the Bonus Videos section of his course site, and is called "C2B1 – Sea-Gull Style Shock Springs".
    • If the metal was twice as thick, it wouldn't snap so easily.  The thickness is governed by the space available so you can't use thicker metal.  If you glued two pieces together, the likelihood of snapping would be reduced.  That's my theory anyway, could be wrong. 
    • there are various approaches to learning watch repair. A lot of people want to jump right in and every single watches something to be repaired restored. But other times like this it's disposable it's here for you to learn and when you're through learning you throw it away. yes you definitely should try this you have a learning movement you need to learn and the best way to learn is by doing something.
    • Sorry, the friction will be so great that the wheel will barely turn, if the movement will start at all, the amplitude will be verry lo.
    • If I can’t re-pivot the wheel, the logical thing to do is to descend the pivot hole.  Plan is to either stick a suitably sized hole jewel (from a barrel bridge or something) or fashion a blob of epoxy on the underside of the escape wheel cock so the wheel sits on its one pivot on the base plate and the staff with the broken off pivot (which I’ll polish as best as I can) becomes the upper pivot. As long as it doesn’t foul the 4th wheel it should work? I know it’s a bodge job, and if this were a rare movement, or belonged to someone else I would not do this. I’m just interested to see if I can get the thing to run. 
×
×
  • Create New...