Jump to content

ETA 2892-A2 Automatic Works - what else can I do?

Cmmb8519

By Cmmb8519
in Watch Repairs Help & Advice

 Share

Recommended Posts

clockboy Distinguished Member

clockboy

Posted
Posted

Just picked up this thread again. Some auto movements recommend NO lubrication (such as Rolex). Since I have started using only Fixodrop (Epilame)for the reversing wheels I have had no issues. What might be a good test is to remove all mainspring power from the watch and then rotate the oscillating weight a few times and see if the watch springs to life. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cmmb8519 Watch Enthusiast

Cmmb8519

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks all.

I just gave a good clean to the rotor bearing and with no lube on the bearing balls the oscilating weight is rotating much better. I tested while disassembled from the auto work train and it is rotating for 20+sec with half rotation push.

With the watch with no power, the oscilating weight can bring it to life.

Another thing I noticed that i don't know if it is normal behaviour!?
With the movement outside the case, if i move it around to make the oscilating weight rotate, i can have a much more free rotation in the weight if i release some pressure by giving a little manual wind in the crown. It seems that the oscilating weight struggles a bit to give power to the spring when compared with the manual wind. Could be normal behaviour? I'm not sure!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted
35 minutes ago, Cmmb8519 said:

Thanks all.

I just gave a good clean to the rotor bearing and with no lube on the bearing balls the oscilating weight is rotating much better. I tested while disassembled from the auto work train and it is rotating for 20+sec with half rotation push.

With the watch with no power, the oscilating weight can bring it to life.

Another thing I noticed that i don't know if it is normal behaviour!?
With the movement outside the case, if i move it around to make the oscilating weight rotate, i can have a much more free rotation in the weight if i release some pressure by giving a little manual wind in the crown. It seems that the oscilating weight struggles a bit to give power to the spring when compared with the manual wind. Could be normal behaviour? I'm not sure!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk
 

You get much free rotation of the weight  giving it manual wind, Not a good sign.

 There is a problem in the module as jaycey suspected. Aside from the two reversers check the ratchet wheel's driving wheel, this is the third wheel in the module. No slack of it's arbor in the jewels/ holes when module is installed, just perfect free fit is acceptable. Also check for fault in its gears especially its reduction gear.

Regards joe

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Nucejoe Distinguished Member

Nucejoe

Posted
Posted

With the autowinder installed. Put a dot on the ratchet wheel with a magic marker. Turn the watch to !et the oscilating weight fall under own weight and wind,  turn the watch , do not shake.

The dot  should move indicating, ratchet wheel turning, that is the winder should wind when the weight is falling under own weight, even near full wind.anything less is faulty.

Either the winder, barrel, or both.

While at it, let me explain why lidless. The m/s should not  coil, out of flat/ level. With the lid closed you can only see scratch marks, with lid off you can see the spring coiling. Though strong or new a m/s coiling out of falt is faulty.

Rgards joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites
JohnR725 Distinguished Member

JohnR725

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, Cmmb8519 said:

I tested the oscilating weight (dissassembled from the remaining of automatic works train) to check how much time it rotates. I put it on the vertical and gave it a half rotating push.
It takes 1-2 sec to stop! Does not seem right, does it?

I used basic method of put it in pegwood, but tried to handle it as much as possible in vertical. Even if the test setup is not the best i would assume it would rotate for more time.

I washed the oscilating weight with the bearing installed in the ultra sound machine and after dried put 4 drops of 9010 on the metal spheres.

If it doesn't pass the 30 Second test the video tells you what you need to do. It just doesn't tell you how to actually do it which is replace the ball bearing assembly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kafxnxt0EZY

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Cmmb8519 Watch Enthusiast

Cmmb8519

Posted
  • Author
Posted
If it doesn't pass the 30 Second test the video tells you what you need to do. It just doesn't tell you how to actually do it which is replace the ball bearing assembly.

 
All sorted and working fine.

Thanks very much for all the great ideas and changeling thinking.

At the end it was only the oiling of the spheres of the bearing that was creating atriction and stopping the oscilating weight to move with short and slow movements. The 4 small drops of 9010 that I put after assembly were causing this.

After a good cleaning and assembly the bearing without lub it is charging the mainspring well.

Thanks again!!!

Sent from my SM-G950F using Tapatalk

  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • VWatchie
      Without Our Forum

      By VWatchie · Posted

      Yes, "Sold out" is difficult to understand. There doesn't seem to be a lot going on. It's been nine months since any new video was published on the Watch Repair Channel. The Level 4 course on watchfix.com has been in progress for what feels like forever (several years!?). Maybe Mark's enterprises aren't doing well or perhaps already so profitable there's nothing much to motivate him for more material. Or, perhaps these days he's more into crochet. The real reason is probably something entirely different but it would be nice/interesting to know. I don't mean to sound gloomy or pessimistic, but I wouldn't be surprised to be met by an HTTP 404. Every day feels like a gift.
    • nickelsilver
      Setting lever spring

      By nickelsilver · Posted

      Steel has some funny properties, or at least counterintuitive. The modulus of elasticity is effectively (not exactly, but close enough) the same for steel that is annealed and hardened. What changes is the point of plastic deformation* . If the movement of your spring doesn't pass that, it should work fine. It looks a little thick, I would thin it a bit maybe from the main body out about halfway, maybe 10-20% thinner (not in thickness, along its form). But if it works it works!   *So- if you have two bars of the same steel, one annealed, one at 600 Vickers (general hardness watch arbors might be), clamp them to a table so the same length is hanging out, and put a weight on the ends, they will bend the same amount. But if you continue to add weight, then remove it, at a point the annealed bar won't return to its original straightness. That's the point of plastic deformation. But up to that point, as springs, they are the same. However- their wear characteristics will be very very different. And getting the hardened bar past its point of plastic deformation takes a lot more effort.
    • swiss2k
      Omega cal. 565 - low amplitude

      By swiss2k · Posted

      @JohnR725 now that you've mentioned it. This is actually the second aftermarket spring (same place and brand) I ordered as the first one broke. The eye on which the arbor pulls on, broke off on the first spring after the first wind, and also it was a bit to large for the arbor. Looked like on one the second picture in the 2nd group. The second one was exactly the same, I had to bend it a bit, to give it a more prominent curve to the end of the spring so that the arbor catches the eye.  Also I believe both were 5-10mm shorter. Not that I writing that, I feel a bit dumb, as the spring might actually been the problem all along, although its advertised as a substitute to the original...     
    • mikepilk
      Setting lever spring

      By mikepilk · Posted

      The CS70 is the only one they show as annealed.  A further search on ebay, I found CS75 and CS100 annealed carbon steel strips  e.g. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314072784422
    • Hawaiikook808
      Balance spring fell out of regulator pin.

      By Hawaiikook808 · Posted

      Aloha and thanks for catching all these small but important details, John.  I'm going to give it a shot. The good news is I have a parts movement here with a perfect complete balance.  I will place them side by side for visual reference when doing what you outlined.  It's been a while were I've had a hobby in which I joined a forum.  I forgot just how helpful everyone can be. Mahalo. Frank.
×
×
  • Create New...