Jump to content

best way to find spar parts for my calibre?


dv4p

Recommended Posts

Hello everybody !

 

While practicing on my NH35, i faced 2 problems :

1. I broke the hairspring :D 
(while removing the cock, it popped out of its place, deforming the hairspring)

2. I lost a screw

(need to practice my tweezer handling haha)

 

So, i'm looking for a balance wheel (# 0310 183 or # 0310 197 - if someone can help me, it depends on which technical guide you use : NH36 or 4R36, which are supposed to be the same ) and a center wheel bridge screw (# 0012 354 )

Do you know what's the cheaper way to get both ? I read that the best way for screws is to buy a broken movement but i think most of cheap broken movement on ebay will have a broken/rusted balance wheel.

 

Thanks for your help

Have a good night !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes but i'm trying to learn, so i'd want to try to install the balance wheel on the cock

It wouldn't be logical to buy a full brand new movement to again take it appart ... if i can do cheaper it would be better

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I understand! personally, I would buy a complete movement. The movement broke, you never know what they really have. and the pieces alone, are often average $ 10 us .. so to be certain of the purchase, I prefer to buy new .. and it will do more experience in disassembly, and other spare parts! ;-)

Envoyé de mon SM-G955W en utilisant Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The interesting thing with inexpensive mechanically & quartz movements are a lot of times you get a service sheet and the service sheet will show spare parts yet no spare parts are available? It's because it's actually cheaper for the factories to mass-produce movements entirely with automated machinery that it is to package up spare parts. Spare parts are packaged up by hand they become very expensive.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

(I missclick and added two images and i can't find a way to delete them... i can delete the picture from my message but when i valid my edit the images appears again - can't even find a way to delete my post and post it again without photo...)

 

Ok thanks for your help, so i'll go for a full movement, and i'll probably try to disassemble balance cock and balance wheel to get some experience

But can you help me to find one cheap ? i can't find one under 45$ with shipping ( https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Genuine-Japan-made-SEIKO-NH35A-automatic-date-movement/223161485447?hash=item33f5760887:g:cZQAAOSw1H9bglE3:rk:73:pf:0 )

There is this one cheaper but i'm not sure it's genuine ... it's a clone i believe ? https://www.ebay.fr/itm/For-NH35-A-mecanique-automatique-de-montre-bracelet-mouvement-unique-calendrier/142736985827?hash=item213bc98ee3:g:SmYAAOSwXudbJH97:rk:69:pf

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, dv4p said:

I missclick and added two images and i can't find a way to delete them

Sometimes getting the editor to remove things is difficult  if seemingly impossible. So there's a interesting feature you can make use of an all or nothing delete feature. That is you have something you want to delete close the window/Tab that this website is in.  I sometimes do this I forget I'm doing a reply.  I go to research something I leave come back and it looks like there's nothing in the editor. But soon as you click that you going to reply the editor remembers everything. Which used to be still prevented you from deleting off anything but that's changed it now has a new feature. I've attached image of what you should see it knows it's restoring previous text it gives you the option of leaving all of it. But if you want to keep it you can hit the acts and everything stays. As I said really nice if you forget that you're towing something in need to come back equally nice if you want to delete everything and start over.

The problem of spare parts and where to get them? Then there are other complications like who you are hobbyist versus professional and where you are? For instance there's a lot of local material houses  that won't even do online trading they only deal with the watchmakers in the region a lot of these won't even talk to hobbyists. Simplistically if you're not in the trade you don't exist as far as they are concerned.  Then the online dealers do they ship out of the country? So for instance there is a place where we buy things from the get the best price you have to be a login is usually just a couple of dollars off whatever they show so your NH35 movement is $38..

Then there's the other strange thing sometimes even the wholesale material house is not the cheapest place to buy things from. A lot of times eBay is cheaper but not necessarily. You basically if you want the best price you have to go shopping  and look at everybody.

http://www.startimesupply.com/

 

 

weird editor.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
    • Hi! I am in the process of restoring a rado captain cook mkII. I want to remove the rotor, but I am not sure how to and need some help. As you can hopefully see on the photo there are 2 screws. The left one has two positions, the right one looks like a regular screw. I have tried turning the right one, but it does not give even after using more force than I would expect. Anyone know the function of the left screw with the two positions and how to remove the rotor? Thanks!!
×
×
  • Create New...