I am considering selling leather watch straps, but I have a question before I blindly go ahead and produce a bunch of them.
I am wondering if anybody who has worked in the industry for a while can tell me what the most common sizes are of strap pins or lug widths?
I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I was given a 1973 seiko lord matic (5600-9001) recently and I am very fond of it. The acrylic is in pretty good condition and the case isn't too scared up. There are only 3 problems with the watch. First, the case is a little bit dirty between the lugs. Second it gains about 15 seconds a day. Thirdly, the original bracelet is too small, so I tried to replace it and found that one of the spring bars is stuck. I don't really know what to do with the watch so I came here to get some advice. Should I take it to a local jeweler, send it to the seiko service center (probably a bad idea), or try to work on it myself? If there is anyone on the site that is able to work on the watch I would consider that as well.
I need some help with repairing my Emporio Armani ar-1922.
I've watched some videos on YouTube but none of them resemble the movement of this particular watch.
My first problem is removing the stem/crown. I cannot see anything which looks like it will release the stem and I don't want to poke around inside it any more for fear of creating any damage.
Any help will be much appreciated.
Hello there watch fix fans. Here's (I hope) an interesting one for you.
I have this beautiful small ladies 'Fero Feldmann' Swiss-made watch - it came in a bag of "used and to be repaired" watches.
From what I can see, the mechanism seems in very good working order. Just a slight shake and it goes and goes. There is no strap, but that is not the issue here.
The problem is the stem and/or crown. As you can see, there is definitely no crown. But I am wondering about the stem.
The watch does have its case and edoes have, as you can see, a hole where the stem and/or crown will/should fit in.
There is something which appears to be some kind of part-stem at the 3 o'clock position.
Using tweezers I can pull it out and push it back in quite freely. A very small screw on top holds this "stem" in place. I think you can see, in ths second photo, how this "stem" attaches to the rest of the movement.
Clearly I need to attach a crown. BUT what about a stem? A stem extension? Or one of those crowns which has an extended stem-like attachment which should fix onto this current "stem" in this watch?
Yes, the watch face is somewhat scratched, and the minute hand is a little bent at the top. You may say it is not worth my while trying to get this fixed. But I just SO MUCH like this little watch and would LOVE to give it life again! It clearly IS still "alive" - though I'm not sure if it is a mechanical wind-up or an automatic. The latter of these seems to be the case - as I said earlier, a little shake and the mechanism goes and goes. PErhaps with a little oil (and lots of encouragement) it can be made good.
So my main question - what kind of stem/crown to attach and how to do it?
First things first. That hole for the large wheel needs to be re-bushed. You also need to make sure the pivot is burnished, so any marks on the pivot will need to be removed. You do not need one of those horrid bushing tools, they are a waste of money, do the re-bushing by hand. The reamer if used correctly will self center to the hole. The power is shutting off because of the angle of the wheel, it can not mesh correctly with the other teeth/ wheels. this will cause the beat of the clock to become shallow and stop the clock. I'm sure once this has be repaired the movement will have a better action from the escape wheel to the pallets, at the moment I can tell the power is shutting off causing the escape wheel teeth to become shallow to the pallets and it stops. The best clock oil to use is Windles.
There's a lot of good info in this thread, just to chime in and stress that the hole really needs to be re-centered before proceeding. Often the wear is within the oil sink, and that is normally well centered, and you can use that as a visual guide. In your case the wear has gone outside the oil sink; ideally here I use a compass with a wide point and scriber tip and make a now concentric circle around the hole, then file up to that with a round file. Then ream to size for a bushing.