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Hello, All! ...New Member / First post...


ZebraMidge

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Me?  I'm a holdover from the manual and electro-mechanical typewriter industry. I have carried a tool kit all my life to the point that my tool kit arm is longer than the other!  LOL!

I'm old, but still curious as a cat and might finally be getting serious with my Horology education-have tinkered with watches for years, but nothing serious.  -opened my first watch case back in the 1960's and watched parts go a-flyin' !  Luckily, it was my brother's watch, so I wasn't out anything! :)

Recently I have been trying to regulate a Sellita SW200 that was gaining 2 minutes per day.  With help from a large magnet the watch is now at minus 15 seconds per day. Hoping to learn enough to take care of the problem,  Currently in process of buying proper tools,  I have a low dollar kit, but it is just not good enough (in my opinion). I'm a stickler for correct sized screwdrivers and despise a marred screw head!  My goal with screws are to keep them looking un-touched!

Best!

Zeb

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Many here do have, or started off with a reasonable low dollar kit and if you get your fingers to do what you want them to do, you can get fairly far with them ! Once you get better, you most likely like / want to have some better tools. Whether these watch-tools ever going to be heavy enough to bring your other arm just as long as your tool-kit arm, that needs to be seen :D

Just like Geo; curious what you get up to ......

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Welcome Zeb I like you came through the same ranks, Imperial Remingtom  and Underwood to name but a few, Got hooked on watches and clocks a long time ago I too an "Old" but still love the clocks and watches got a house full. This is the place for help for sure some learned guys on here. 

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    • That's a good idea - shrinking down the nut and wrench size from the old casebook trick!
    • I missed this earlier. The dial isn't going into the holder, it should sit proud of it. This is what I am currently using which I print for each different movement.    
    • I didn't think pulling to set position would work harden the spring, in that position it is stressed where the arm starts. By work hardening i meant rapid polishing at that point, a bit like polishing a pivot work hardens as it compresses the steel. I doubt polishing by hand would achieve much in that respect though. Its finished, arm polished up mostly at the join to the bridge's main body. I'm ok with it, the screw holes aren't great as i had to open them up by redrilling and positioning it was difficult, I'm not much use with a loupe, opening up with a file might be a better option for me or i could just use the correct drill size 😅. And the detent is way too deep, i had to guess that with the stem release out of position and sat on top, but i only took one measure and went for it, no slowly slowly catch your monkey 😅. First go I'm happy , well sort of, it works and thats a big thing for me, next one will have a bit more finesse.  Anyone thats interested, after filing, i used a 2000 grade home made diamond  micro file and then 20 micron film, the film is much better than wet and dry, more stable to use and doesn't shed cheap grade grit everywhere , then auto polish on a sponge pad.
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    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
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