Jump to content

Fitting a watch crystal


Recommended Posts

Hello again. Following my request for help finding a watch back the only option seems to be fitting a low dome crystal instead so the back becomes see through, curtesy of philipk5

My question is how much bigger than the actual size of the hole should a watch crystal be to ensure a tight fit but still fit in.

The diameter measures 27.8mm and as it's only a cheap watch which I want to fix as usable for my son but I don't want to spend loads of money buying a range of sizes.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks, Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you still find it loose and you need it to stay put.....on a cheap watch....just a tiny bit of super glue applied to a well cleaned oil free case..three or four tiny spots..so you wouldn't notice it.and the crystal will stay in place .

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the internal diameter of the case measures 27.80mm then a 28.00 low dome acrylic should be able to be fitted using a "claw". It needs to be tight enough to provide some sort of seal and not fall out but not so tight it won't fit!!.

If you use any sort of adhesive it will make removing the acrylic somewhat difficult in the future (probably next week when a proper case back turns up). 

Also make sure that the crystal doesn't foul the stem &/or pushers and any moving parts.

Photos of your watch front & rear may remind someone they have something in their scrap bin?

Hope this makes sense, and helps keep another watch in use.

Cheers

Phil.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A simple cheap alternative would be to make a case back from a CD (Compact Disc)

I have a habit of stringing up CD's in the garden. After they have weathered the coating comes off and they are clear but not as transparent as a watch crystal. Also the ones I have had are 2 part laminates which easily separate after weathering. I have used these in the past for emergency crystals in cheap watches.

In this case you could use a new CD. Cut out a circle which fits tightly into the case. Cut another circle which fits over and to the overall diameter of the case and glue the 2 together. Alternatively just cut a circle which fits the overall diameter of the case and glue it on but glue it all around so to seal it. Trim if necessary with a file, sandpaper etc.

It should not scuff up as quickly as a crystal. I use scissors to cut after the CD has delaminated ie one half but I use my scroll saw to cut a full thickness CD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

   the use of glue, on the crystal, will reduce the value of any watch!  if you must use it,  use epoxy,  on the bezel, because it can be removed easily  with 200 degrees farenheight.    there are many instructions on proper "crystal replacement".  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have the dimensions I can have a crystal custom made to any profile or flat, costs are at most two euros.

I also have abundance of desent european quality vintage NOS flat crystals at low price.

Cutting is done with grinding stones.

To alter one and make fit yourself. Use a razor blade to shave off the circumference down to a perfect fit. 

The art of perfect fit is patience.perfect fit gathers no or minimun dirt. 

The diameter is to be 2/100 of a millimeter larger for tight fit.

If polymer try heating the case , insert the crystal, keep under press, raise tempto get the polymer melt fit. 

A good press insertion dose a lot of good for flat crystals.

Regards joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...