Jump to content

Stereo Microscope


Recommended Posts

There are three different types of stand/holder for this microscope I have seen on eBay. This one on a (sort of) rigid stand, one with what looks like a flexible gooseneck style stand and one on a tiltable suction based stand. You could therefore get one you could angle if wanted - you may even be able to buy the stands seperately as the microscope is the same.

Stephen

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Transporter  got on of these my self and right handy they are for the close up inspection, They dont cost too much either. I got mine through and english based seller at£35.76p, delivery was quick enough and arrived intact, got to get an sdcard and play about with it a bit quite brilliant for the cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

44 minutes ago, watchweasol said:

Hi Transporter  got on of these my self and right handy they are for the close up inspection, They dont cost too much either. I got mine through and english based seller at£35.76p, delivery was quick enough and arrived intact, got to get an sdcard and play about with it a bit quite brilliant for the cost.

Gotta say I’ve been looking at microscopes for awhile but price has been a tad high, buying this was a gamble but it paid off, as like you say it’s very handy for those inspections, I’m extremely happy with it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just used mine yesterday do some  close up Really close up jewel inspections on a pocket watch.

ok yes I could of used a loup but these things are fantastic, I had a jewel that was broken in such a way it was like it was too big for the pivot on the escape wheel, no cracks it just looked like the centre had come away, or maybe it is just too big a jewel!!!!! Anyway I know I need a new one, hopefully might find the correct size in my spares.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I got many vintage watches mainly Oris, pin lever with metal pivot hole, . I posted a topic several months back title" those vintage Oris watches that stop working several months after cleaned". I received advices and 

learned worn out pivot and pivot holes is among many culprit for such movements, So I thought I need a microscope to see the wear in pivot holes and on pivots as well.

Am I right assuming a microscope is best tool for revealing wear in pivot holes? 

Is there any more suitable tool for this purpose?

What type of microscope digital or conventional lenz be most suitable? And what resolution would work  best. 

Thanks in advance.

Regards n9é

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have two microscopes one over my lathe and one on my workbench. They have become an invaluable tools for me because my eyesight is not  good. Inspecting jewels, pivots, manipulating hairsprings and turning down small items on my lathe would not be possible for me without them. They were both purchased second hand the one on my desk is a Olympus and the one over my lathe is a Bausch & Lomb. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, clockboy said:

I have two microscopes one over my lathe and one on my workbench. They have become an invaluable tools for me because my eyesight is not  good. Inspecting jewels, pivots, manipulating hairsprings and turning down small items on my lathe would not be possible for me without them. They were both purchased second hand the one on my desk is a Olympus and the one over my lathe is a Bausch & Lomb. 

Thank you Sir,   A microscope good for checking the pivots and pivot holes for wear suits me. My eyesight too, is poor. Some complain the electronic microscopes they bought are good as toys,  I think high resolution and magnification are the effective factor, am I right? And if so what range or degree of resolution is required or recommended.

I am not experienced with optical microscopes either. 

I need tech specifications of what is recommended. What is the right choice for my intended use? 

I don,t intend getting into lathe or other machining.

Regards joe

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most useful is a stereo zoom, a nice Wild or Meiji or B&L is just the ticket.  i pick them for cheap when they appear on the classifieds, have 4 so far (last one, a B&L came up for $25 with a microtome....I couldn't dial the number to say I'd take it fast enough).  They by far give you best image and resolution.  However they are very expensive new and it can take more than a month of Sundays to wait out the $25 one.  The digitalis main advantage is cost, a nice one is $100, and the quality has for sure gone up.  Magnification over about 50x isn't much use (about the max of a stereo mic) with watches, imo, so if you are selecting one with range, try to get one who's range goes well under 50.  i.e. 10-100 would be great, 100-500, about useless or close thereto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a standard but modified pine desk which is painted white and covered in white vinyl, an adjustable stool which gives me just the right height. The movement or movement holder would be about 22cm from the front edge of the desk which is lipped at the front to catch  (most) airborne springs and screws. I can work for hours without back or eye strain but whatever arrangement you have I think regular breaks are important

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • in general this shouldn't be any change. but in general questions like this it be nice to know the specifics of the watch in other words how was it performing before it was cased up and what is it doing now.
    • just as a reminder this watch is a Swatch group product. This will bring up a problem like spare parts and technical information. that I found some links to some information on when I talk about your watch and some of the technical and basically your watch is equivalent to 2834-2 for which I'm attaching the technical sheets. But equivalent does not mean exactly the same you want to do a search on the group for C07 as we discussed this watch before including the technical differences how it's supposed to be regulated and basically because it's watch group there is no parts availability. https://calibercorner.com/eta-caliber-c07-xxx/   https://www.chrono24.com/magazine/eta-movements-from-the-2824-2-to-the-powermatic-80-p_80840/ https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/h-10-movement-details.4636991/ eta CT_2834-2_FDE_481857_15.pdf
    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
×
×
  • Create New...