Jump to content

Hole ended mainspring


LiamB

Recommended Posts

Hello, I need to replace a mainspring in a Waltham pocket watch and have revived a new spring inside of one of those rings. However the mainspring is a hole end and I have no idea how to get it to engage with the hook when installing it into the barrel. I have only installed Swiss mainsprings before. 

Any help would be greatly appreciated! 

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You should push the spring in like any other, but it can be a little tricky to align the hole with the barrel hook because as the spring expands into the barrel it will tend to unwind slightly.

I find that it is best to turn the spring slightly so the hook lines up just past the edge of the hole in the spring (towards the coiled spring, not the spring end) before fitting.  As the spring is wound up it will then tend to align naturally with the barrel hook if it wasn’t quite there after fitting. Clearly if the hole starts the other side of the hook you would need it to slip a complete turn when winding to catch on the hook.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote

  often,  on a vintage pocket watch,  you will find that the main spring had been  shortened rather than replaced.  this requires you to aneal the "hook end"  before broaching a hole or making a "fold".   there are several other potential problems for a "first time" mainspring replacement on a vintage watch.   this very good forum can adress them.  vin

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Is this a modern replacement spring or a original spring?

I'm attaching an image this is an original waltham spring and it's shaped different than a modern spring. So to hook into the steel barrels typically found on waltham watches ideally the mainspring should look like the image. The modern spring will just have a hole and it usually will never catch. Then if you look where the bend is you'll notice that the hole edge has a taper that is to wedge into the protruding part of the barrel. So you can try shoving your modern spring in but usually that will not work at the minimum you need to file the taper.

 

Waltham mainspring.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 10/7/2018 at 3:49 AM, StuartBaker104 said:

You should push the spring in like any other, but it can be a little tricky to align the hole with the barrel hook because as the spring expands into the barrel it will tend to unwind slightly.

I find that it is best to turn the spring slightly so the hook lines up just past the edge of the hole in the spring (towards the coiled spring, not the spring end) before fitting.  As the spring is wound up it will then tend to align naturally with the barrel hook if it wasn’t quite there after fitting. Clearly if the hole starts the other side of the hook you would need it to slip a complete turn when winding to catch on the hook.

 

Thanks, that method worked very well. The spring slipped right in place!

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Welcome to the group Stirky. You can search for just about every subject in the craft here. Don't be afraid to ask if you can't find the answer that may have already been covered ( some ad nauseum LOL ). You don't have to buy Bergeon to get good quality. There are many decent mid-range tools available that will last you a lifetime. Cousins would be a good place to start . Cheers from across the pond ! Randy
    • I picked up a similar amount of these jewels some years ago in a watch and clock fair. Every now and then they come in handy. This week I've got a rubbed in bombe jewel in the balance cock that is cracked and needs replacing. Very handy to have a vintage assortment of these type of jewels!
    • Great diagram with the teeth and pinion count. Simple way to reduce the speed of the hour wheel by the 12:1 minute wheel. Genius and yet so simple. Always good to reinforce the principal by what you have done in your drawing. Keep doing that. I had a drawing on my wall for years showing me this which is very similar to the drawing you have done. Here's a formula to work out the beats per hour of a watch movement. The movement's BPH is dictated by the wheel teeth and pinion count and the hairspring being vibrated to the correct BPH by finding the pinning up point on the hairspring using a vibrating tool.  The reason in the formula there is X2 on the top line is because there are two pallet stones.
    • So I just wanted to say "thank you" again.  The angle is the key bit it seems and yes, it did basically just fall, or float, back into position when I got it lined up just right. I had meant to add that now that I see how it goes in, I totally see how it came out in the first place, and that whomever cloned the original movement didn't pay much attention to the fine details around the setting or how it interfaces with the balance cock or the "rings" on the regulator and/or stud carrier arms.
×
×
  • Create New...