Jump to content

oiler sizes


AP1875

Recommended Posts

hi, I bought a set of second hand tools. Included were some A&F oilers - black, blue, red, green and yellow. Only problem for me is I don't know which oilers to use for each part. I've watched marks videos on essential tools but it doesn't go into which oiler is used for each job.

From Cousins I can see;

Black -  super fine

Red - super fine as well??

Blue - fine

green - medium

yellow - large

 

if someone could let me know what each oiler is for that would be really appreciated.

Also, there was some D5 in there that went out of date last month, should I bin it?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Personal preference. I only use the super fine black oiler for pallet stones and quartz jewels generally. Red for most 12-ish ligne watches. Yellow for applyling blogs of grease, etc.

If the D5 looks ok, then I'm sure it will be fine. My opinion, but I'm not convenced about the short shelf-lives of Moebius oils when they are kept bottled and airtight.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oils generally thicken, but one thing you can’t tell easily is when they oxidise. They can become acidic which can corrode some bare brass parts. Occasionally you can see signs of this on clock plates where an over-oiling drip turns green. 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I'm assuming that every time you set the watch you are work hardening the detent spring, maximum hardening is  where it meets the plate due to maximum deflection.   That's why it snaps there.  The Young's modulus may be the same but after it's reached its maximum yeid strength it breaks.  My mechanic engineering is very rusty, correct me if I'm wrong. 
    • Ah ok yes that makes sense to polish it where the arm starts to form from the body of the bridge, i thought you meant the underneath of all the arm.
    • this is something I've never quite understood about the some of the Swiss companies. In 1957 Omega was using 9010 for the keyless parts with epilam. there's been a slow migration towards using heavier lubrication's but still typically oils and epilam to keep them in place. When it seems like 9504 works so much better.  
    • OK, welcome in the world of alarm clocks... I guess the 4th wheel is dished because it is from another movement. If it was not dishet, then it would not mesh with the pinion of the escape wheel, am I right? The marks of wear on the 4th wheel pinion doesn't corespond to the 3th wheel table position, at list this is what i see on the picts. Calculating the rate is easy - there is a formula - BR = T2 x T3 x T4 x T5 x 2 /(P3 x P4 x P5) where T2 - T5 are the counts of the teeth of the wheels tables, and P3 - P5 are the counts of the pinion leaves. Vibrating the balance is easy - grasp for the hairspring where it should stay in the regulator with tweasers, let the balance hang on the hairspring while the downside staff tip rests on glass surface. Then make the balance oscillate and use timer to measure the time for let say 50 oscillations, or count the oscillations for let say 30 seconds. You must do the free oscillations test to check the balance staff tips and the cone cup bearings for wear. This kind of staffs wear and need resharpening to restore the normal function of the balance.
    • Glue a nut to the barrel lid, insert a bolt, pull, disolve the glue.  Maybe someone will have a better answer. 
×
×
  • Create New...