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Watches under repair (hopefully)


ecodec

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Hi everyone, I have an old verge fusee watch for repair with separate outer case. The bottom pic and on the right is an early English lever, again chain drive and fusee. I have cleaned it and repaired the MS and  made adjustment to what I still call the potence cock bearing to set the balance free with a touch of end shake. Need a HS and collet now and then we will see. The Verge will be the next job between customers. Why do I bother ???? Interesting ??IMG_4382.thumb.JPG.e81e4b5fc9a9a4f110384ec1af5f4dc3.JPGIMG_4381.thumb.JPG.c52f63c4d194cec147ab318dfdd5ae3b.JPGIMG_4380.thumb.JPG.97ef146da816e59572d4e2c861146b1e.JPG Pics herewith. Both gifted to me. IMG_4379.thumb.JPG.e7558586abb2916aa700aa0416bdbaf4.JPG

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I feel your pain my friend, as much as i enjoy fixing and repairing for other people, it does sometime take up so much of my spare time that all my projects get left by the wayside, i currently have been trying to source a new hairspring for an old pocket watch for someone, that and hands, they also gave me a fusee to do but i have declined to work on that asi have never done one and i will want to do one of my own before attempting someone elses.

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Will keep you posted OH. Progress will be slow but being almost complete is a bonus on these old watches. I have difficulty in finding where the HS outer end bead fixing is on the English lever Blunt watch. HS was missing on this one. Maybe you might to be able to advise me on this ?? Regards, Mike.

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    • Many thanks for your advice (being borne in mind at present) & offer Dell. When I was given the clock the plastic anchor was loose on the arbour (it had split at the 'hole') &, after repairing this, I have been trying to determine whether the spindle (pin) should be perpendicular when the pallet is sitting on a flat surface; or whether, when installed, its L-R extremes (or alternatively its tick & tock points) should lie at equal angles from the vertical when moved with spring absent. I can get the clock to run but in every such configuration the top block has to be turned anti-clockwise (from above) by quite a bit in order to be 'in beat' & it always runs fast (despite the pendulum being set to as slow as possible). This makes me wonder if there is any particular feature of/fault in a torsion spring clock which determines which turn direction (if any) is necessary to get it 'in beat'; & whether there would be a different set of settings that would get it running nearer to time at somewhere around the mid timing/inertia position which would then allow tweaking of the fast/slow setting.
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    • Ive heard about that oil before for the lever pins. I found it easy to work on , it didn't have a whole lot of pivot wear but i bit sloppy on the lever cock, i think you have to live with what you have or bin it. Stiff to wind and set ?  Not a cannon pinion issue that has no friction thats made up further back and if I remember the barrel drives the hour wheel. No problem on this one .Let me know when you start it as i have another that donated to this one, i can work alongside you with it, two heads are better than one. 
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