Lubricants

[Docbondo]

Hi, I'm a total newbe but i am enjoying this a lot! I am starting my new hobby by working on Seiko 6309 divers.

My question is: Seiko calls for 4 kinds of lubricants. Moebius A, Moebius V, Seiko S-2, and Seiko S-6. What are the commonly used lubricants?

I have seen synt-a-lube and others in Marks videos. What should I be using as substitutes for the above?

Thank you for your help.

Mike (newbe)

Edited September 17, 2018 by Docbondo

[Tudor]

Hell there...

I'm not the expert on this, but there are several threads on lubricants. I mention this as it is like discussing politics at a dinner party... It may not go over well.

But, I do believe you can refer to the Mobeius lubrication chart and be fine. Watch will require re-regulation but that's normal anyway.

Good luck!

[rogart63]

Think you can use this . 

[Docbondo]

Thank you This will help

Sorry about the political stuff. If I had only known....... hahaha

M

[DouglasSkinner]

Depends on what you're lubricating.  High grade watch movements are pretty specific and you can look them up by manufacturer.  But the same manufacturer (e.g. Rolex) may have changed their specifications several times.

For most of what I do--none of it really high grade as well as old pocket watches--I use Moebius 8000, HP 1300 and 8200.  Henry Fried says you can use Vaseline in place of 8200.  For old pocket watches they used to use, among other things, sperm whale oil!  (My former instructor who has everything of historical interest to the watchmaker had some!)

Edited September 17, 2018 by DouglasSkinner

[rodabod]

http://www.nawcc-index.net/Articles/BTI-The_Practical_Lubrication_of_Clocks_and_Watches.pdf

[Docbondo]

I don't think a Seiko 6309-729 or 7049 case would qualify as a "High Grade Movement." But I have to say that I think they are the best to start working on. Their simplicity makes them easy to work on, and their accuracy can be pretty amazing. But you have to kiss a bunch of frogs to find the really great one. The Barrel arbor and the baseplate seem to really get worked over. So I have ended up with 4 or 5 movements to make one really good piece.

I want to start working on Eta movements soon.

Thanks for all the help. I look forward to signing up for the courses.

M

[Tudor]

ETA’s are fairly easy, and parts are cheap too, so unless you get something really old they are great to play with. 

But the easiest movement I’ve torn into is the Rolex 15xx movement. It’s sort of a kin to a farm tractor. Simple, and overbuilt. Low beat by today’s standards but quite accurate. Generally, if not broken, just clean and lube properly. I like them. My only 3135 experience is a replica movement so I reserve judgement on the real deal.