Jump to content

Revue/MSR T43 unusual balance cap jewels, are they correct ?


mikepilk

Recommended Posts

Stripping an  MSR T43 movement, I noticed too much end float in the balance, and then found these cap jewels.

I've never seen any like it. The jewel is flat, which may account for the excessive end float, the pivots appear OK.

On the Incabloc site they don't reference T43, but for T44 T46 the cap stones are 122.11 

which are the same as ETA 2824, 2892. 

Anyone seen any of these, are they correct ?

 

WIN_20180901_16_17_26_Pro.jpg

WIN_20180901_16_21_18_Pro.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Intriguing!

This chap had the same observation... https://www.thewatchforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/108514-incabloc-query/  ... so it seems this is a feature!

And yet if I go to a close up of another T43 movement and zoom in on the balance I can't see any reflection anomaly to indicate a cutout.

Maybe something MSR introduced in the movement's history?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, nickelsilver said:
1 hour ago, mikepilk said:
I've changed them for the normal shaped ones (122.11) but still have too much end float.
Maybe  I can push the lower Incabloc in a touch.

They wouldn't change the endshake. All are flat (with the exception of some that had offset concave sections, very rare).

The cut-out ones are flat both sides - unlike the 'usual' ones with one convex surface. 

The watch over-banked when I got it, and the guard pin has a bend in it, so someone's been playing with it. 

I need to see how the pallet fork and guard pin sit, then decide what to do. The pivots look OK, so I'm not sure where the problem is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have seen cut cabs used in other makes too. I am pretty sure on bulova 11blacd.

I too thought that is likely to give easy access for oiling. Then thought anyone who can oil pivot through this cut would do it easier with the usual method. Plus oiling the cab itself  involves more than just pouring oil on it.

We all seen cases of cabs stuck in place and sometimes are real pain to remove, the cut lets you pry the cab open/seperated  with an oiler or needle. That too can be regarded as an advantage.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
    • I recently bought this but not on ebay. I figured if I want something Japanese I better check Japanese auction sites since these don't seem to pop up on ebay. I paid 83 € plus shipping & taxes. I think it was pretty reasonable for a complete set in good condition.
    • Did you take the friction pinion off the large driving wheel and grease it? Although, now that I think about it, that shouldn't have any effect on the free running of the train if the friction pinion isn't interacting withe minute wheel/setting wheel...
×
×
  • Create New...