Jump to content

Hi all, glad to be amongst like-minded individuals.


Nost

Recommended Posts

Greetings.

Just a little introduction. I am a nurse in the UK looking for a hobby that I can turn into an income in years to come.

I am in the process of immersing myself in horology, I have renovated an 'overwound' French mantel clock and will next do the same to a Garrard Westminster chiming clock. My plan next will be to work on some 'overwound' pocket watches, and finally wrist watches. Due to the expense of the tools, I will be purchasing slowly (nurses wages aren't great unfortunately) and would have built enough skill to renovate/repair some vintage pieces.

I have an electronics background but fancy my hand at a mechanical pursuit to keep me sane and dexterous.

I'm looking forward to the adventure ahead :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Welcome to this friendly forum.

You cannot overwind any clock or watch. If the movement is fully wound, then something is causing it to stop, it is probably dirt or wear. You can have a movement that is barrel bound. That is the spring is would but it will not unwind.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I figured that pretty early on when I started looking at why the clock wouldn't run...

In the end it was simply dirt and friction... I like to use 'overwound' now as tongue-in-cheek tern ;)

Thanks for replying, good to meet you :)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 hours ago, ecodec said:

Hi Nost. Welcome. I am not sure what you mean by "overwound". You have to repair  whatever you have been given and take note of what OH has to say!!  Mike.

Hi Mike, 'overwound' is a term I've seen quite a lot, its a misnomer, but one I like to use to describe the clocks I look for to service. No offence intended to OH.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 hours ago, ecodec said:

Hi Nost. Welcome. I am not sure what you mean by "overwound". You have to repair  whatever you have been given and take note of what OH has to say!!  Mike.

I think you will find many will use the term overwound when the watch or clock has been fully wound and it will not work. Nost has said it is a misnomer which is correct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

5 hours ago, Nost said:

Hi Mike, 'overwound' is a term I've seen quite a lot, its a misnomer, but one I like to use to describe the clocks I look for to service. No offence intended to OH.

 

5 hours ago, Nost said:

Hi Mike, 'overwound' is a term I've seen quite a lot, its a misnomer, but one I like to use to describe the clocks I look for to service. No offence intended to OH.

No offence taken by any of us Nost, You are quite right with regards to your explanation of OVERWOUND !!.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • That's very interesting information. I haven't tried to see if my bombé jewel holes have olive holes but I think I should be able to tell on the larger jewels at least. See if I get a chance to have a look later today. This little story was very comforting to read for a "bungler" like myself. That success isn't a given even for a pro. Thanks for sharing!
    • I forgot that I said I would do that. Will take some tomorrow and post them up post haste.
    • I've seen some really nice early 20th century pieces where all the jewels, including center wheel, were convex. Definitely to reduce friction. It can be quite hard to tell if a jewel has olive holes, especially on small sizes, but that again reduces friction- as well as accommodates small misalignments better. Why they aren't used more often? I imagine it was found that at a certain point in the train the actual advantage became negligible, and the added cost on high production movements is why it's not seen on those, just higher-end pieces.   I did an experiment on a little 5x7"' AS 1012 a few years back. These things run OK sometimes, but often are absolute dogs. And AS made gajillions of them. I had a NOS novelty watch in for a service, ran OK flat, massive drop in amplitude vertical. Made like 3 staffs for it trying different pivot sizes, no change. Tried high quality (not Seitz) convex/olive jewels, no change- the original were flat, but could have been olive hole. Same for the pallet fork, then escape wheel, no change. Probably had 20 hours in the watch, new staff and new hole jewels through the escape wheel, no difference in running. Just a dog of a movement. But if I were making a watch I would use them, just because.
    • When Nicklesilver mentioned the use of them on non coned pivots on older high end watches closer to the escapement.  That suggested to me  probably fourth wheels and possibly third wheels. The square shoulder rotatating on the much smaller surface area of a dome as opposed to a flat jewel surface. I'm curious as to why they are not used predominantly?
    • That's what I thought, but as I said, it makes sense. See if any of our pros will have something to add.
×
×
  • Create New...