I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?
I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
Hi. My name is Tony. I'm from New Jersey, in the United States. I have a modest entry level collection of quartz and mechanical watches.
I enjoy repairing electrical, mechanical, pneumatic, and hydraulic equipment. I want to learn how to maintain and repair a wide variety of watches.
I'm looking forward to learning about watch repair and making Friends in this forum.
Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now. I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress...
Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case.
After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot.
Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear.
I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated.
I do have the Manual for the movement.
I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.
I'm happy to finally start posting on this terrific watch repair community forum. I've been a member for almost a year, but have been mostly searching the forum for asked and answered questions that might help me with my novice watch repair techniques. I'm a vintage watch enthusiast with a special love of Timex watches from the 1950s through the 1970s. I developed an interest in watches about 4 years ago when I rediscovered two mechanical watches (a vintage Longines and a Seiko 5) that my father had left in a desk drawer years ago before he passed. Amazingly, both ran in spite of never having been serviced! I was hooked and began my own mechanical watch journey. I'm looking forward to learning more from this wonderful community.
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Ok I didn't make a 3D model or anything, but laid out the most important part, the plate. The back piece is 40mm x40mm, the arm can be anything hinged any way just so that it comes down over the balance rim. The support piece for the inside of the rim can also be anything, on the old tools they were V shaped and pressed into a hole, on my friends it's a simple pin that has a notch filed in it. The notch/V permits whatever bit of screw that is sticking out inside the rim to be unharmed when working on it. The threaded holes for the pins are a 2mm thread, but anything near that would be fine. You can see in the pics that there were different ways to hinge the arm, either with a hole drilled all the way through the 40mm back plate and the arm recessed in, or with pressed in hinges, both would have been a test of the student's patience, not becuase they are necessary. A simple hinge from a hobby store for dollhouse work or whatever is fine. I don't know what the pin sticking out the front of the tool is for. They all have it, but?
Hi all, I have had to install several times second hand on my omegas (10xx) that were a pain due to their soft spring. I have not an omega holder, so I made my own "tool" from a piece of copper wire with the end filed flat. I removed the auto weight whose axle lays just below seconds pinion, and dropped the wire to just lay on the seconds pinion. Then marked the wire where it exits from the rotor hole and bent it from the mark to make an "L" with the shaft measuring just the length from the rotor base to the seconds pinion. Let it go through the rotor hole and check that shaft goes all the way down, to ensure no pressure will damage the seconds pinion or axle. Simply lay it on the movement, support with a piece of tape and lay the movement on a flat surface. with the new "L" tool lying on the bench. The seconds axle will remain in place while installing the hand. Not a high tech solution, but it served me. I hope it helps you, taking care to not miss axle length, better short than long Sorry, but I have not better photos, I did new just to give you an idea. The last two are the actual size and position on my watch Regards
Just a brief Hello, I have not been active on the forum for some time but without going into detail there have been a few health setbacks and deterioration of sight has not helped. Ironically I have just recently been given an excellent watch makers lathe and am enjoying my practise with it. I am still tinkering but it takes much longer than it used to. I have an ancestors company verge fusee pocket watch in pieces at the moment, it is signed but as with these items probably not much of his own work gone into it. I will be working on it from time to time but parts may be an issue. Also an Omega bumper is in pieces, cleaned and ready to work on. So not quite written off yet. If anyone is interested, John Robey has published a PDF on Academia about Sam Harlow, one of my Ancestors from the line of Ashbourne Clock and Watchmakers,a Long Case Clockmaker. Its quite interesting, obviously to me, but others may be interested, I may have a word with him and get permission to put it on the Forum for folks. Anyway, hello to everyone for now and I will be popping back again from time to time. Cheers, Vic