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Hi everyone. I'm brand new to watch repair, but I'm starting to really get into it as a hobby. I'm a 30something American living in Taiwan. Right now I'm really interested in old Walthams from the 1920s and 1930s, and old Hamiltons from the 40s and 50s. I have a few real-life friends who do repairs for one of the big Swiss companies, so they're mostly to blame for me getting into this. I normally don't join forums, but talking to experienced people seems like the best way for me to solve some essential challenges, and hopefully to learn. 

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    • By kma2018
      I'm happy to finally start posting on this terrific watch repair community forum. I've been a member for almost a year, but have been mostly searching the forum for asked and answered questions that might help me with my novice watch repair techniques. I'm a vintage watch enthusiast with a special love of Timex watches from the 1950s  through the 1970s. I developed an interest in watches about 4 years ago when I rediscovered two mechanical watches (a vintage Longines and a Seiko 5) that my father had left in a desk drawer years ago before he passed. Amazingly, both ran in spite of never having been serviced! I was hooked and began my own mechanical watch journey. I'm looking forward to learning more from this wonderful community.
    • By alanbid
      Hi,
      New to this, but have always enjoyed watches, but now getting more involved with easy repairs..
      Thanks for having me,
      Alan
    • By FiddlerBob
      Hi All
      I've an 11 jewel 1879 Waltham pocket watch with very old and pitted jewels, particularly 4th and escape wheel. They've caused a bit of uneven wear on the pivots so I'm getting wavey traces on the timegrapher. I've polished the pivots and this has improved the situation a fair bit, but would really like to replace the old jewels.
      Now, as they are held in chatons, is there any way of purchasing replacement jewels complete in the chatons? I had assumed since Waltham made bajillions of watches that spares for the jewels in chatons would be simple to find, but I'm buggered if I can! 
      Am just I going to have to try and put replacement jewels in the existing chatons? 
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    • By Dave84
      Hi Everyone 
      I hope you are all well. 
      It has been 12 months or so since I last logged in, and shamefully about the same since I pulled out my box of old watches. I was browsing the 'Bay' as always and really liked the look of this Waltham Traveler. I picked it up for less than £10 and would like to use it as my first restoration project. I have undertaken minor repairs in the past but nothing like this, I hope I haven't bitten off more than I can chew. 
      I need to find a key to see if it winds & runs, repair/service it and source the hands and a case, which is uncharted territory for me and I'm not sure how easily they are sized / sourced.
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      Dave  
       
       
       



    • By JCStuyck
      Hello everyone,
      I am french, 64 years old , retired and  leave in Indonesia .
      I always had a passion for watches and start collecting them 40 years ago. 
      I must say that After a very active life I am getting bored and decided to spend time with my passion.
      I am sure I will be communicating with many of you in a near futur.
      Good day to all of you.
      J-C
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    • Looks like a fun project. I suspect there is little that would stop it passing modern electrical safety standards, so long as it is earthed, has the correct rated fuse, and a suitable mains cable attached. How does the speed controller work? Some of these old speed controllers use an interesting arrangement of compressible carbon disks as a variable resistor. I have an old Singer sewing machine that uses this arrangement, and a slightly newer Kenwood Chef mixer that uses a triac speed controller. Both are 1970s vintage, and both work well. I would inspect any capacitors associated with the motor assuming there are any, and perhaps replace those with modern suitably rated ones, but the rest I would suspect is fine. If the motor runs, then it will probably keep running. If this is a brushed motor, you might like to take the opportunity to clean the commutator with a bristle brush (not a steel wire one) and inspect the motor carbon brushes too. If the brushes are badly worn or damaged, they can kill the commutator pretty quickly.
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