I have a watch that I am fixing up for myself. After lots of research l, I concluded my watch is a 1960s Hamilton Stormking VII. As my watch needs a new crystal I ordered one from ebay that is for a Hamilton stormking VII. When I got it in I immediately realized that it doesn't fit. The replacement seems to me about 1mm larger than the original. (I dont have a caliper). Is this even a Hamilton Stormking VII? Or did I get the right crystal but I have to modify it before it fits?
I have a 50's/60's era Waltham men's wristwatch that needs some help.
It's in amazing (as-new) condition, but while wearing the other day, it stopped - even though there should have been plenty of power in the mainspring.
Disassembling for investigation quickly revealed the trouble. The screw-head from the ratchet wheel screw had broken off and found its way in to the train wheels and locked everything up.
There appears to be no other damage - thankfully. But now I want to fix the movement. My preference would be to find a barrel arbor and screw - or better yet a complete going barrel assembly new with ratchet wheel screw.
I am search eBay now - but thought I'd check with you guys to see if anyone knew of a good source for such parts. I haven't found any yet.
NOTE: This movement is Swiss made, 7 jewels, marking on the base plate look like Unitas 1690/02
Any info/help is greatly appreciated.
Hi. My name is Tony. I'm from New Jersey, in the United States. I have a modest entry level collection of quartz and mechanical watches.
I enjoy repairing electrical, mechanical, pneumatic, and hydraulic equipment. I want to learn how to maintain and repair a wide variety of watches.
I'm looking forward to learning about watch repair and making Friends in this forum.
Greetings folks. I've been working on watches as a hobby for about 20 years now. I started out on pocket watches and have never cleaned a clock. In fact, I had a great cleaning machine, with the big jars, and a few other clock tools, that I gave away to an aspiring clock guy over at the Tascione site. But I digress...
Nearly 20 years ago I bought a Hamilton model 21 ship's chronometer. It's an early one, pre 400 serial number, and is a thing of beauty, as these generally are. Back when I got it, I had a professional service it for me. It was done well, but wasn't cheap. $400-500, IIRC. I used to display it in my living room and run it occasionally just to hear the escapement and marvel it its accuracy. From about 2009 to 2014 it sat in my storage unit, waiting for new digs. In 2014 I wound it up and it took off running. I let it run down and then put it away for a couple of years. When I pulled it out, I discovered that it had a broken balance pivot. While originally I thought someone had knocked it over and wasn't copping to it, but now, after inspecting the upper pivot's wear, I don't think that's the case.
After botching the first staff I got trying to replace the hub, I set it aside again for the past couple of years. The way I broke the staff was I overestimated how deep the hollowness went in my hollow punch that I was using to tap it on. It bottomed out in the punch and destroyed the pivot.
Now that I'm finally over that disappointment, I decided to give it another go. I bought a staff that already had the hub installed. I may have to polish the lower pivot, as it doesn't seem to want to set in the hole jewel properly. I'm in the process of verifying all of this. I had to tear down the chronometer at least to the point where I could check to see if the broken part of the pivot was impeding the staff from setting properly. The hole jewel is clear.
I'm doing the best I can to do it right, and get it running again. I won't be running it, but want it running just in case I should decide to sell it. Otherwise the value drops quite a bit. Since I have it completely torn down now, I might as well clean and oil it. Does anyone have a hot tip on the best cleaning solutions for cleaning these chronometers? I'd like to use something that will cross over and work for my cleaning of watches as well. I have both an ultrasonic and the small L&R mechanical. I have one more fresh batch of cleaner and rinse, petroleum, no-water, formula. Should I use that, or make, or get, something new? Any tips for oil and grease types to get me by? Any suggestions are appreciated.
I do have the Manual for the movement.
I know that this is risky business, my working on this chrono, but I just can't afford to spend another $500 to get it running. Plus, I heard that if you're going to run these, you've got to spend this $500 or so to service them every few years. That is not going to happen. Feedback, suggestions, warnings, tips, etc., are all welcome. Many thanks. Cheers.
I'm happy to finally start posting on this terrific watch repair community forum. I've been a member for almost a year, but have been mostly searching the forum for asked and answered questions that might help me with my novice watch repair techniques. I'm a vintage watch enthusiast with a special love of Timex watches from the 1950s through the 1970s. I developed an interest in watches about 4 years ago when I rediscovered two mechanical watches (a vintage Longines and a Seiko 5) that my father had left in a desk drawer years ago before he passed. Amazingly, both ran in spite of never having been serviced! I was hooked and began my own mechanical watch journey. I'm looking forward to learning more from this wonderful community.
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Can you see the stop works? A lot of this depends upon how to answer the first question? Depending upon things you may not build a access the stop works without taking the barrel out. Then it's all the more fun with the power off not impossible just more interesting. It's much easier to do it in the watch if you can. Then you can let the power off without removing to stop works it will just come to a stop of course. How much power is there depends upon who set it up. There's not necessarily a rule of having one turn it depends on the length of the mainspring the watch itself and if you're trying to pick an appropriate part of the mainspring to run the watch. And I was of you don't have enough power you might put more than one turn initially see her on the top are the mainspring or if you too strong you might just barely put any as long as the watch runs when it comes to a stop.
JDM is completely right. But honestly I think the hairspring would be a tall order even for an experienced watchmaker now... I'll be taking pictures today. Honestly to me this is really the hardest part of the whole watchmaker thing. Hairsprings are so delicate and my hands don't seem to be steady enough yet, especially my left hand. And as jdm said, I just learn from Mark's course. I wish I could learn this in person. Thanks!
It might be nice if you gave us a picture looking straight down at the chronograph with as much detail as you can. One of the minor problems with the chronographs are and it's mentioned in the manual not all screws are screws. Some of the screws are for adjusting things and if you rotate them without knowing what you're doing that would be bad.