Jump to content

Smiths dashboard 8 day clock


transporter

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, another project just got purchased, local antiques fair, and £15 secured a supposedly broken clock, I did sneakily give it a little turn of the key ( although fully wound ) and it started ticking quite nicely ( and ran for just over an hour) anyway I’ve done a search and although there seems to be quite a few for sale be it on eBay or other antique/auction room sites there seems to be very little information on these on line.

its a swing out model with key etc on the rear, mode patina on the rear cover but I will clean up the dial and mount it to a nice wooden stand. I did find a video on university YouTube which showed how to remove the movement from the case but that’s all.

does anyone know what the Cal. The movement is etc etc please.

this is the same type that mine is 

 

5067C616-40DD-4D98-9ABB-C2F547762051.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sorry I can't provide any information for you, but I am jealous.

I like the old car clocks but in Australia I could never find one for $30.

I've been keeping my eye out for a Smiths car clock but haven't found one locally for a reasonable price.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Post many pictures as you go please! I have one of those which my grandfather fitted into a piece of wood, and one day I will give it a service.

I was told that the wood is an off-cut from the Queen Mary’s handrail when it was being refurbished.

Sadly the silver has been removed from the dial of mine so I will need to replate that too. Many more jobs on the list before I get to that though...

If you haven’t worked this bit out yet, the MA symbol on the dial stands for “Motor Accessories” as in Smiths Motor Accessories.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Post many pictures as you go please! I have one of those which my grandfather fitted into a piece of wood, and one day I will give it a service.

I was told that the wood is an off-cut from the Queen Mary’s handrail when it was being refurbished.

Sadly the silver has been removed from the dial of mine so I will need to replate that too. Many more jobs on the list before I get to that though...

If you haven’t worked this bit out yet, the MA symbol on the dial stands for “Motor Accessories” as in Smiths Motor Accessories.

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Cheers guys, looks like lots of us have an interest in these clocks, I’ll be honest I just decased it and it’s a very simple movement to work on, no pictures I’m afraid as it was just a quick look,and like some I e a few other jobs waiting first, but I will keep all informed and pictures will be coming ok. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On ‎8‎/‎27‎/‎2018 at 9:00 AM, transporter said:

Cheers guys, looks like lots of us have an interest in these clocks, I’ll be honest I just decased it and it’s a very simple movement to work on, no pictures I’m afraid as it was just a quick look,and like some I e a few other jobs waiting first, but I will keep all informed and pictures will be coming ok. 

   your clock must be "rim wind - rim set".    I have not seen one with a wood rim,  I am eager to know what is stamped on the  mvt..  vin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...
  • 3 years later...

I have a Smiths MA which my father removed from his 1931 Austin 12/4 before selling it in 1950.  The main spring was broken.  After he retired he got a new main spring fitted, but initially the clock runs fast, then goes slow as the spring begins to wind down.  It only lasts about four days on a wind.  I think the new spring is wrong, probably too strong but unable to take a full wind.  Where can I get a correct replacement spring and get the clock fixed properly?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you have described as you have said is its the wrong spring. 

You will need to take the clock movement apart and remove the barrel, take out the old spring. Measure the height in side the barrel and its inside diameter. Have a look and see if there is a cal number. A few photos could help us.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

looking at the stem within the movement, when you press the stem in how much clearence do you get on the cog and the plate? could this cog be a pressure fit and have you used any heat to try to lever offf that last cog. That to me would be a starting point. Also when you depress the stem have you looked all around its circumference where it would normally be hidden by the frame work etc for a pin that my need to be driven out.

That last cog is probably whats holding it in place though so look for a physical method that is restraining it then go for heat hat use to falt head screw drivers, one either side of the shaft and under the cog and use a twisting action to lever off the cog. This way you donty risk bending the stem when levering off the cog.

T

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Unfortunately I'm not that lucky. I started on the train side and after I noticed the binding I pulled everything out except the driving wheel to rule everything else out. It still binds. I'm going to double check that the pinion is fully seated on the staff first, then if no joy I'll push the bridge jewel up a fraction of a mm. Fingers crossed!
    • Happy to have helped, great way to start the day with a win! 🥳
    • Thank you for the advise!! It worked. The setting screw was a lock/unlock to remove the rotor. 
    • I have that French tech sheet too, it is a little different than the English one (eg, it doesn't have the auto works diagram). BTW, it looks like you are looking up the case number in the 1979 ABC supplement. The 1974 ABC catalog does have the 3093 case. As you determined it takes the 1222-5 crystal.  When I serviced my President 'A' (which also takes that crystal), I was able to fit a 29.8 crystal from my DPA crystal assortment. Those are, in my opinion, a great deal. The assortment comes with 10 sizes each from 27.8mm to 32.4mm in 0.2 increments. I pretty much use them for any non-armored crystal that takes a high dome crystal. I think they no longer make them but Cousins has still has some in stock but when I bought them they were around $40 for the set and now they are around $100. Still, at 40 cents a crystal it's still a good deal. For the large driving wheel, I remember I once assembled the keyless/motion works first and when I placed the large driving wheel it was interfering with the setting wheel on the dial side as the teeth were not fully meshing and it wouldn't fully seat. If that isn't the issue I got nothing and am looking forward to see how you solve it 🙂
    • Not sure, but just looking at it, it seems like the screw on the right may be a fake? The one on the left may not be a screw in the regular sense at all, rather a 2 position device, I think you need to point the slot towards either of the 2 dots and one will secure and one will open. Like I said this is just my best guess looking at the pictures.
×
×
  • Create New...