I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch.
1) Open the wathc case
2) removed rotor
3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out)
4) removed the movement from the case
5) put movment to movement holder
6) removed hands
7) removed dial
8) put new dial
9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all..
Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before..
Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial. The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement. I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure.
Is this a common scenario?
I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ).
Thanks in advance.
I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me.
Anyone have any ideas?
Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
Thanks in advance
In order to properly service the movement you absolutely should remove the wheel so that you can clean any contaminated or degraded oil away (which if left could very easily result in premature wear and failure even if the side shake is acceptable now) and relubricate with fresh oil.
A dedicated 5 spoke wheel puller is the best way to go as it pulls at the hub, eliminating the risk of deforming the wheel, but not the only way. The important thing is to pull the wheel straight up with no twisting or canting of the wheel since the arbor is brittle and will snap sooner than bend.
This can be achieved using two thin blades worked under the wheel from opposite sides to gradually wedge the wheel up.
You may need to protect the bridge with some paper or tape to prevent scratches, and you need to use blades that are only very slightly thicker than the gap between the wheel and the bridge because you need to progress slowly, and don't be tempted to twist the blades. As long as the force is straight up in line with the arbor, and gradual enough to not deform the wheel, you should be alright.
What is the brand of the crystal. That looks like a low dome. I normally use GS crystals and the left one looks like a dive tite or one of “tite” models. Was there a tension ring. I never really order from cousins because shipping takes forever to USA, so not sure what they sell.