Jump to content

ETA 251.262 Magic Hands


Recommended Posts

Well, not really magic hands, just behaving rather strangely.

I serviced an ETA 251.262 out of a nice Tissot Martini Racing I'd acquired. The movement was very stiff and did not work. The small second hand was pulsating back and forth though.

It was very interesting though after the service and putting in the new battery. The sub dial second hand went backwards, as did the chronograph second hand. The sub dial split second hand worked correctly.

I stripped it down again, reassembled it and this time the big minute recording hand and large chrono second hand went backwards, but the sub dial second hand worked ok.

I stripped it down again and tested the stators up against a compass. Each one was magnetised but the polarity varied. I guessed it could only be that was causing the problem. I demagnetised each stator, drawing each one the same way up and away from the demagnetiser.

Now all the hands go clockwise, except the split second which isn't working at all now.

Oh what fun.

 

By the way, never use a demagnetiser on a quartz watch.

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I serviced a 251.262 recently. Had a hard time getting it to run properly . But it never run backwards. I changed the red coils 3 times. measured them and put them in . One of them was broken anyway. Even think i did managed to break one with voltmeter. 

Why did you demagnetize the stator? 

Check the coil for the split second.  Red should be around 1,8 to 1,9 ohm and grey or green around 1,5 i think. Also check the little black box thing . Make sure the screw is tight over that. 

Edited by rogart63
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had checked the coils before servicing and after reassembly. What I did find was evidence of polish compound in and around the crown and pusher tubes and between the case back and case. I think the previous owner must have polished the case using  dremel or similar machine. This was probably the cause of messing up the rotors and stators, regardless of the magnetic shield of the movement. Polishing as the cause was guesswork, but using the demagnetiser on the stators solved the problem.

It was indeed quite weird to see the hands turn in different directions, then only to be corrected after faultfinding. Then others that were correct to then go backwards. I put that down to not putting the stators back in different positions. The magnetic field the stators produced must have had an effect on the rotors. I'm guessing here, but as they were magnetised the polarity had an effect on which direction the rotors would turn. That's why I put them all on the demagnetiser a few times the same way up, and lifted them away all in the same direction.

I must say though, the stators did not demagnetise 100% ( probably a rubbish demagnetiser), but must have had an effect on aligning the polarity.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...

There's two types of stator: 4021 and 4021(1). The 4021(1) drives the rotor in the opposite way when energised. They look identical apart from a notch near the screw hole of the longer arm.

Neither type are permanently magnetised.

Thought I'd better share after putting a jigsaw of parts (eBay!) back together.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Oh nice. I have a similar wedge style stump for my staking tool, so I'll give that a shot. Thanks!
    • Thank you all for the replies!  Very informative! True enough, the Gamsol took some time to evaporate and does leave a residue. So not all naphtha are created equal!  Need to find alternatives then. i was able to try Hexane recommended by Alex and it seems great.  I wonder what the cons are?
    • Yeah, I saw that in the tech sheet but I don't see how it can be adequately cleaned with the friction pinion still in place. I've accidentally pulled the arbor right out of the wheel once when I used a presto tool to try and remove it. Mark shows how he does it with the Platax tool. Those are a little too pricey for me so I got one of these from Aliexpress and I just push down on the arbor with the end of my brass tweezers. That usually gets it most of the way out and then I just grab the wheel with one hand the and the friction pinion with the other and gently rotate them until it pops off. Probably not the best way but it's seemed to work for me so far.    
    • Thanks, Jon Sounds like a plan. Obviously I'll have the face on so do you think gripping with the holder will create any problems, but I will check in the morning to see how feasible it is but I assume it only needs to be lightly held. As for holding the movement instead of the holder won't be possible in this scenario as one hand will be puling on the stem while the other pushes the spring down. That was my initial concern is how the hell can I do this with only one pair of hands. All the other times I've had to remove the stem hasn't been a problem, apart from the force required to release the stem from the setting lever, but now I need to fit the face and hands its sent me into panic mode. If it had the screw type release things would be a lot simpler but that's life 😀   Another thing I will need to consider is once the dial and hands are fitted and the movement is sitting in the case I will need to turn it over to put the case screws in. I saw a vid on Wristwatch revival where he lightly fitted the crystal and bezel so he could turn it over, is this the only option or is there another method?      
    • Hi Jon, do You think that relation spring torque - amplitude is linear? I would rather guess that the amplitude should be proportional to the square of the torque. I had once idea to check it, but still haven't.
×
×
  • Create New...