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By Bill3
This is an addendum to my question above. I have included a picture that I left out of my question. I also want to say that the watch was demagnetized.
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By Engineer
The oscillator, or something, in my automatic wrist watch seems to be greatly affected by outside temperature (summer vs winter).
It seems to run fast in the summer, and even faster in winter (The manufacturer said they could adjust it).
Q: Is this difference with temperature normal/possible?
and
Q: What would cause this? [a poor choice of hair spring material (stiffer in cold = higher rate)??? a poor choice in lubricant???]
Thoughts?
As an Engineer, I like to understand causes and effects.
As far as my watch is concerned, I will be surprised if there is a year round fix.
-E-
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By Carramrod
I'm relatively new to mechanical watches and have quickly become fascinated but have an elementary level question that hopefully someone can answer.
If the hairspring and balance wheel come to a complete stop due to the main spring running out of power, what is it about winding that sets the balance wheel back into motion? I understand the way the escapement works once it is in motion to input a small amount of energy into the balance wheel, but don't understand how winding alone sets it back into motion. I know with grandfather clocks you have to restart the pendulum manually and I'm wondering why this isn't the case for watches also. TIA.
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By toptime810
I bent the hair spring attempting to turn the hair spring collet to line up the roller jewel with the pallet fork. Manipulated it and this was the end result. I had to pat myself on the back.
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By GeorgeClarkson
As per the title, I was checking why my Gigandet Valjoux 7733- based chrono was not working today, and noticed that the hair spring got loose from the small insert that connects it to the balance cock (what's its name again?) Taking a closer look, it appeared to have been fixed with schellac, but I am not sure. Would this be normal, if so?
So now I need to find a way to reinstall the hair spring inside the stud. Heating it gently could be the way, but I am afraid I will only riun the hair spring if not careful enough...
Ideas? Comments?
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Thanks watchweasol that's fantastic. I've had a quick scan through, it's always good to have a manual. You don't happen to have the 104 manual it refers to for cleaning? Off now to read and digest, thanks again.
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As I indicated above I did email the best pictures that I could see of all the pictures and I'm pasting the answer below. To really go beyond we need better pictures. Then the definition a better pictures is the impossible picture? There's a reference to the roller table which is totally invisible at all these pictures. In the early days of lever escapement's there are lots of variations of things. So the roller table located underneath everything engaging with the lever might have something clever. If your watchmaker with a loop it's easy enough to look in. Photographing that would be quite a challenge unless you knew exactly what you're doing. Then attempting to remove the balance wheel would not recommend unless you have experience with watches of this type. As because removing the balance bridge does not allow you to remove the balance wheel without underpinning the hairspring. Typically the hairsprings are pinned to the main plate. You will notice the reference to conversion to lever escapement. As technology changed the early movements would transition into newer movements. So basically they will take their older movements and start to add bits and pieces of newer technology on to them rather than making an entirely new watches. As for the fusee, I really can't make out any details about the escapement from those poor photos. It looks like a standard lever escapement but it has a verge style balance cock. The case marks look like London, 1830. This would be way too early for a standard lever escapement. Perhaps it started out its life as a verge and was converted to a lever at a later date. I'm pretty sure that the signature is James McCabe - a well known and collectible watchmaker. It would be interesting to see more details of the roller table. This could, for example, be a Massey lever. Better pictures would help.
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By watchweasol · Posted
Hi according to the list its a 108 manufactured in 78. manual attached. cheers 108 (2).pdf -
Thanks watchweasol. I've had another look and it says the following at the bottom of the dial: Great Britain "46562 10878" JerseyMo, the plucky little watch isn't done yet. The auto-winding is definitely working. I've been checking in on it periodically and giving it a shake. It's ticking away as it should and the date advances, even if it's running about 12-15 mins slow over roughly a 12 hour period. I've warmed to it for sure. The bean counters can't mark this one off their spreadsheet just yet. Hello again Poljot. Is the "sophisticated" click just a piece of bent metal engaging the teeth? I think I'll have to investigate further and report back, after I've cleaned the DNA and grime from around the case back before I open it!
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Question
Bill3 6
Once again I am asking for help. I cleaned an Illinois pocket watch. It was running well, but had a lot of lint and other debris inside. I cleaned the balance wheel and hair spring without taking the hair spring off. Cleaning was done in lighter fluid in an ultrasound machine. The movement was cleaned in an ultrasound machine using watch cleaning fluid followed by two rinse soakes. Everything went back together well. When the balance cock and hair spring were placed the spring was not parallel to the plate. None of my manipulation could make it so. If the balance wheel is manually the escape wheel moves normally, but the watch will not run. When not in the watch the hair spring is parallel to the balance wheel.
I have included pictures. The one from the side was meant to show the h.s, but is hard to see.
Thanks in advance for your help.
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