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I am cutting this for a chap in the US and the ones I have have a hole deep enough to accept the pivot; and two different size holes as well for 18s and 16/12S movement staffs.
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A minor wrinkle in this discussion? For which I won't have an answer until I go to work tomorrow perhaps. Do you know this tool comes in two different sizes sort of? It actually comes in more sizes it comes in various heights for the various staking sets. Then the hole diameter that the punch goes into comes in two different sizes. One for smaller watches and a bigger one for pocket watches. Problem is I can't remember if the punch is different sizes or whether they just have one of those?
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By watchweasol · Posted
. I Think the problem was succinctly explained by both posts, like all lubrication it opens up a dark hole. There are those who do , those that don't , those that will and those that wont. Two very good explanations. -
By watchweasol · Posted
Lubricate as normal, Innovations within the watch world like any other manufacturing industry take place because they either aid manufacturing or are easier to produce or produce a benifit to the watch or widget, It may have been experimental and produced on a short production line for evaluation.
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Question
Jon 119
Hi,
This is the first time posting on here and hope someone can help?
I have recently bought a National electric watch cleaning machine on eBay. I rewired it and bought L & R Extra Fine Watch Cleaning Solution and Rinse No. 3 in a three jar set up.
The problem I have is the watch parts don't come out clean. I put the basket in each jar for 12 mins and then dry over a really low heat hair dryer I rigged up in the watch cleaning machine, instead of the ceramic heating element. The fluid is half an inch above the basket when submerged and the metal wave breaks in the jar help the fluid not foam up. Technically everything is perfect. I have even put the watch parts in different parts of the basket to make sure it wasn't the way I was loading the parts into it. I originally put all the parts into wash and rinse without precleaning or pegging out in any way, to see if the solutions would clean the parts without having to pre-clean. They don't even look like they have been cleaned. Although the brass wheels like a lot shinier. Admittedly these are watches from the 60's that are filthy. It seems a long way to do it if I have to pre-clean all gunky watch parts, like pith and pegging the leaves etc. Is that usual practice?
I have added some pictures. I have recently sanded the machine down, ready for a respray, that's why the aluminium sign is not attached. The pic of the two jars are: The big jar is the first clean jar, which turned this green colour after my first wash. I think it was the dirty baskets, which I thoroughly cleaned after. (hindsight is a great tool!) The little jar is the colour it is when fresh. The two rinse jars are still colourless.
If I have quite clean parts can I put them straight through the watch cleaning machine, or should I pre-clean them as well? I understand that pegging the jewels is always a good idea, as it can increase amplitude by as much as another 20 degrees.
It feels as though I'm doing something wrong, as I'm expecting this process to be easier and quicker than my lighter fluid, IPA and sonic cleaner. Can anyone shed some light on this please? It would be much appreciated
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