Jump to content

How To Chamfer A Watch Case

BigOffshoreDaddy
 Share

Recommended Posts

BigOffshoreDaddy New Member

BigOffshoreDaddy

Posted
Posted

So I've been searching, I've even Googled, and I cannot seem to find out how to chamfer a watch case.  I've been getting into case restoration, polishing, etc., for Rolex and the like, but this topic seems elusive.  Any help, advice, points in the right direction, and equipment I would need would be most welcome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jguitron WRT Addict

jguitron

Posted
Posted

Hello!

I’m assuming you mean facet or bevel along the lugs....

Those are made with a lapidary or lapping machine. It requires a precision holder that allows you to move the case only in one direction so that the bevel is precise or sharp. It also allows you to give it a brushing or black polish finish.

The Swiss machines are running at around $9000 and up.

If you’re refinishing a case with a bevel.... then gentle touches with the buffing wheel at high speed can clean them up but be very careful not to round the angles.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tudor Distinguished Member

Tudor

Posted
Posted

I'm very interested in this as well.

I had thought, perhaps a buff, loaded with diamond paste, somehow attached to one of those knife sharpening jigs that keeps the angle constant... Not tried it yet, just been thinking about it (without spending $9k on a lapping wheel)

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BigOffshoreDaddy New Member

BigOffshoreDaddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Well, after spending a couple hours of researching (on top of the previous research!), I think I've found something...

SHAVIV 29249 Bonus Pack Deburring Tool Kit for Extra Close Work with Mango IIB Handle (11 Pieces)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JY7LXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c3DDBbNYNZZME

From what I've seen on video of this, this particular tool will do a 45 degree angle. There are others that will fit the handle for different bevels etc., but you get the idea. I'll give this a go and let you know what I discover and the results.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BigOffshoreDaddy New Member

BigOffshoreDaddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I'm not really sure what you're trying to do; if it is refinishing an existing bevel this won't do it, if it's creating a new bevel then a file would work far better.


What I'm trying to do is create a chamfer at a precise angle where none previously existed, then go from there. Since I don't have 9 grand lying around, and since I really haven't found or been given anything of substance thus far, this seemed like a good idea to try out. I'm not exactly the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do get the steak cut.

If there's something you know that you can educate , I'm definitely willing to listen!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites
nickelsilver Distinguished Member

nickelsilver

Posted
Posted

How big of a bevel and on what shape of case? Honestly files would be the best and easiest. If you aren't skilled at filing there's really not another method that will get you there any easier. Even with a lathe and milling machine and being skilled in their use, matching contours and angles would take forever. With a bit of practice you can file bevels all over a case in about an hour, figure two to three times that to get them polished while keeping them crisp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted

I have one of those tools, great for taking the sharp edges off so you don't cut your fingers, not so good for giving you a nice edge on a watch case, although other than hand files and practice I can't think of a better way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
BigOffshoreDaddy New Member

BigOffshoreDaddy

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for the guidance so far...now we're getting somewhere!

Just so we're clear, short of a machine or tool to do this for me, the deburring tool is nothing more than something to use as a reference point so to speak to get me started.

From the two dozen or so videos I've seen of the tool in action, it looks like it'll get me started on a point of reference - a basic 45 degree angle - that I can then improve upon with other tools. Sorry if I made it sound like this was all I was going to try and use!

The watch case in question is a Star Time generic "Submariner" case. Like I said, use the tool a couple of times to get the point of reference started, then go to work with the file. I'll totally admit that I'm not mechanically inclined, but I'm not entirely helpless either. In my mind's eye, this seems fairly straightforward.

I hope this makes sense. Like I said, I spent a lot of time researching with not much to go on. Short of a step by step guide, this is the best I can come up with. I'm sure it sounds crazy to some, but it makes sense to me a little. lol



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Tmuir Distinguished Member

Tmuir

Posted
Posted

Can I suggest you practice on some scrap steel first before trying it on a watch case, much better to make the learning mistakes on some scrap than something valuable.

I've not ever tried to refinish a case so will be interested to see your results

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • mikepilk
      Setting lever spring

      By mikepilk · Posted

      I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes.
    • Waggy
      Movement holder made with 3D printer

      By Waggy · Posted

      Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
    • JohnR725
      Omega cal. 565 - low amplitude

      By JohnR725 · Posted

      as you took the mainspring out what did it look like? It's amazing how much amplitude you can get if the mainspring actually has the proper shape. last week I was doing a 12 size Hamilton and was very much surprised with the beautiful back curvature the mainspring had. Then the watch had a really nice amplitude the group would be so proud it was 350 until I dropped the lift angle down to 38 that drop the amplitude quite a bit below 300. then with the beautiful back curve it still had really nice amplitude the next day. I really wish all my mainspring's look like this as the watch had beautiful amplitude the next day. So many of the aftermarket pocketwatch Springs I see now do not have anything resembling a back curve may be a slight curve and that's about all. They still work but they just don't work as nice as a properly made spring. then Omega as all sorts of nifty technical documentation unfortunately every single corner is watermarked with where it came from who downloaded it etc. very paranoid company. On the other hand I will snip out images like from the document on recycling a mainspring barrel. for instance here's the section on what your mainspring should look like. water damaged a lot of times means rust was there rust on this watch?
    • RichardHarris123
      Without Our Forum

      By RichardHarris123 · Posted

      I wondered that?
    • Neverenoughwatches
      Without Our Forum

      By Neverenoughwatches · Posted

      I dont understand why a patreon membership would have limited places ??
×
×
  • Create New...