Jump to content

How To Chamfer A Watch Case


Recommended Posts

So I've been searching, I've even Googled, and I cannot seem to find out how to chamfer a watch case.  I've been getting into case restoration, polishing, etc., for Rolex and the like, but this topic seems elusive.  Any help, advice, points in the right direction, and equipment I would need would be most welcome!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

I’m assuming you mean facet or bevel along the lugs....

Those are made with a lapidary or lapping machine. It requires a precision holder that allows you to move the case only in one direction so that the bevel is precise or sharp. It also allows you to give it a brushing or black polish finish.

The Swiss machines are running at around $9000 and up.

If you’re refinishing a case with a bevel.... then gentle touches with the buffing wheel at high speed can clean them up but be very careful not to round the angles.

I hope this helps.

Cheers!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm very interested in this as well.

I had thought, perhaps a buff, loaded with diamond paste, somehow attached to one of those knife sharpening jigs that keeps the angle constant... Not tried it yet, just been thinking about it (without spending $9k on a lapping wheel)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well, after spending a couple hours of researching (on top of the previous research!), I think I've found something...

SHAVIV 29249 Bonus Pack Deburring Tool Kit for Extra Close Work with Mango IIB Handle (11 Pieces)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003JY7LXI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c3DDBbNYNZZME

From what I've seen on video of this, this particular tool will do a 45 degree angle. There are others that will fit the handle for different bevels etc., but you get the idea. I'll give this a go and let you know what I discover and the results.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not really sure what you're trying to do; if it is refinishing an existing bevel this won't do it, if it's creating a new bevel then a file would work far better.


What I'm trying to do is create a chamfer at a precise angle where none previously existed, then go from there. Since I don't have 9 grand lying around, and since I really haven't found or been given anything of substance thus far, this seemed like a good idea to try out. I'm not exactly the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I do get the steak cut.

If there's something you know that you can educate , I'm definitely willing to listen!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Link to comment
Share on other sites

How big of a bevel and on what shape of case? Honestly files would be the best and easiest. If you aren't skilled at filing there's really not another method that will get you there any easier. Even with a lathe and milling machine and being skilled in their use, matching contours and angles would take forever. With a bit of practice you can file bevels all over a case in about an hour, figure two to three times that to get them polished while keeping them crisp.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have one of those tools, great for taking the sharp edges off so you don't cut your fingers, not so good for giving you a nice edge on a watch case, although other than hand files and practice I can't think of a better way.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the guidance so far...now we're getting somewhere!

Just so we're clear, short of a machine or tool to do this for me, the deburring tool is nothing more than something to use as a reference point so to speak to get me started.

From the two dozen or so videos I've seen of the tool in action, it looks like it'll get me started on a point of reference - a basic 45 degree angle - that I can then improve upon with other tools. Sorry if I made it sound like this was all I was going to try and use!

The watch case in question is a Star Time generic "Submariner" case. Like I said, use the tool a couple of times to get the point of reference started, then go to work with the file. I'll totally admit that I'm not mechanically inclined, but I'm not entirely helpless either. In my mind's eye, this seems fairly straightforward.

I hope this makes sense. Like I said, I spent a lot of time researching with not much to go on. Short of a step by step guide, this is the best I can come up with. I'm sure it sounds crazy to some, but it makes sense to me a little. lol



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can I suggest you practice on some scrap steel first before trying it on a watch case, much better to make the learning mistakes on some scrap than something valuable.

I've not ever tried to refinish a case so will be interested to see your results

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • people be honest.... Swatch is evil for the watchmakers and repairers, BUT not everything in watches from Switzerland is from the Swatch-Group. As far as i know, Selitta got sacked by Swatch as a Movement-Assembler for them and they started to produce Movements in their own Name with slight Modifications. As far as i know, they sell Parts to the Market for their Movements. In most cases, if a ETA-Movement fails, it is a valid Option to replace it with a Selitta Movement, which i consider the Solution for this Mess with the Swatch-Group...... I have no Connection to anybody at Selitta, but being a Swiss-Guy, i still like to have Swiss-Made Watches, but not from the Swatch-Group.   ok ? regards, Ernst
    • Just one more greedy act by Swatch. They started a number of years ago here in the US..cutting off supplies to watchmakers that could build complications that many Swatch houses couldn't even touch. Old school masters who had gone through some of the most prestigious houses in the world. Otto Frei has some statements on their page about it. I tell all my customers to avoid new Swiss watches like the plague,..unless they just want an older one in their collection that still has some parts out on the market, or they have really deep pockets and don't mind waiting months and paying through the nose to get it back. Plenty of others to choose from..IE Seiko,..or other non-swiss brands Even a number of Chinese brands are catching up with the Swiss,..and I think that in time, their actions will be their downfall
    • Yes. If that's not what you are experiencing...start looking for something rubbing. A 1st guess is that one of the hands is rubbing against the hole in the center of the dial. Especially if you now have lower amplitude in face up/ face down positions.
    • Once a movement has the dial and hands put back and it is recased, would you expect the assembled watch to have the same amplitude as when the movement is in a movement holder and is without hands and dial? Thanks
    • C07641+ not sure what the "+" is for after the last digit.
×
×
  • Create New...