A little tip that may help someone.

[eezy]

As a complete novice I am somewhat nervous about offering tips to you experts. However I had occasion to remove the caseback from my GS Mk2 pocket watch. It is so well machined there is virtually no visible joint to put a blade in without scratching it plus I did not know if it was screw on or not. I was thinking I needed a suction device which I don't have.

After a few vodkas I came up with the idea of using the suction windscreen mount off my Garmin sat nav. It worked a treat. I also used it on my stepdaughter's Rolex ''replica'' which is tiny and has the authentic style Rolex caseback.

I'm sure you guys have tools for every occasion but this tip might just get a hobbyist like myself out of trouble.

[oldhippy]

That's a nice tip. On here, we like all members to take part in helping and using this forum.

[frenchie]

Nice tip, thank you!!

[dieale2]

Using things lying around to actually fix a problem is always genius to me.

Duct tape is not included in that definition.

[Pip]

I had a similar brainwave for a different problem. There is a watch called the Seiko UC-3000 which has a battery that is a bit large for the design and is a very tight fit. The temptation to use an little leverage to get it out is great, but it sits in the middle of a large coil. Half the watches in this family that don’t work you can bet someone has damaged the coil trying to change the battery. Little suction cups for 29p iirc from my local shop did the job. Plop one on the battery and you can get enough pull on it to get it out without damaging the coil.






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[Tudor]

I have one of those cheap “sticky balls” that I use to start Case backs. It helps avoid cross threading as it limits the pressure downward as you rotate. 

The dies tend to want decent pressure to stay engaged and that is more than a tiny lead-in thread should see. 

The sticky ball allows rotation with little downward pressure. 

Start by rotating backwards (unscrew) until you hear the click of the lead dropping in. Then screw it on until snug before switching to the die to snug it up fully. 

Another case back tip for stubborn ones is to invert a can of duster air so the super cold liquid comes out and spray the back until it Frost’s up. Then quickly get the die on there and start unscrewing. This worked for me with a titanium back on a titanium case. That stuff loves to gall. 

[vinn3]

11 hours ago, Tudor said:

I have one of those cheap “sticky balls” that I use to start Case backs. It helps avoid cross threading as it limits the pressure downward as you rotate. 

The dies tend to want decent pressure to stay engaged and that is more than a tiny lead-in thread should see. 

The sticky ball allows rotation with little downward pressure. 

Start by rotating backwards (unscrew) until you hear the click of the lead dropping in. Then screw it on until snug before switching to the die to snug it up fully. 

Another case back tip for stubborn ones is to invert a can of duster air so the super cold liquid comes out and spray the back until it Frost’s up. Then quickly get the die on there and start unscrewing. This worked for me with a titanium back on a titanium case. That stuff loves to gall. 

    god show;   also,  after "the click" or if you don't hear a it.  before you start the screw,  look to see if the open edge slot is even all around the case.  vin

[phydaux]

"After a few vodkas I came up with the idea of ..."

 

In the States we say 

"Hold my beer and lookit this.."

are the famous last words of many rednecks.