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Hi from Maryland USA


DPhillip

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Hello,

I joined last weekend but realized I posted as a reply and should have opened a new topic - I have a small collection of modern and vintage watches and just recently got two of the windups below working again after they seemed to be stuck for years.  This site looks like a great place to learn how to take care of them properly.  I also hope to learn what is needed to fix my Lejour chronometer, which I accidentally broke recently.    My vintage watches are all gifts from my father, who likes to collect one here and there; none are high value but all are interesting for their connection to history:

Here is a list and I am posting photos:

 

Modern:

Orient Mako II automatic dive watch (brand new)

Pulsar quartz chronometer (dates from approx 1990)

Seiko quartz dress watch

Vintage:

Lord Elgin mechanical (runs)

Waltham mechanical (runs) 

Elgin DeLuxe Shock Master mechanical (runs but needs a back - it disappeared)

LeJour Chronometer (needs repair)

Duane

Maryland/USA

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Thank you for the replies - I am happy the photos came out well and turned out to be easy to post.  As it happens, #4 and # going up from the bottom have issues.  My father just recently gave me #4, an Elgin with a screw-on back.  It works great and keeps time very well - but the back is missing!  He wore it quite a bit and said the back worked itself off while he was walking and he lost it.  Not sure if this is a bad idea but I am currently winding it daily and leaving it inside a closed box, hoping it won't pick up dirt.  Let me know if this is stupid.  I don't know if I will ever find a correct back for it or if I need to get a different case for the face and movement. 

#5, I plan to post a repair advice request after a bit - this one if from the 50s or 60s I think.  It looks different, perhaps earlier, than pictures of LeJours I saw online.  It has a Valjoux movement.  My father, a retired U.S. Army Colonel, gave it to me when I was commissioned as a 2d Lieutenant in 1982.  I wore it on active duty in Germany and for several years after.  Eventually it stopped working and one of the small hands fell off.  But it turned out the watch itself just needed a cleaning.  A reputable, reasonably priced watch repair professional in the town I lived in took care of both about 10 years ago.  I then moved a significant distance away and later the watch stopped again - or so I thought.  I took it to someone else, who took it apart and told me it would be expensive to fix. Turned out he was wrong - I took it back to the person who had cleaned it and he had it running almost immediately - apparently I was not turning the crown hard enough and was thinking the resistance was a jam of some sort.  But it is normal for this watch.  But my watch guru also said two screws that fixed the movement in the case were missing - the movement was bouncing around inside.  So the person I had just recently taken it to apparently lost them.  

Not happy about the screws, I wanted to see where they were supposed to go and removed the movement from the case.  This required pressing a detent and pulling the crown out.  Being an idiot, I forgot to press the detent when I replaced the stem.  And damaged the watch, apparently.  Everything went out of line.  My good repair expert looked at it again and reassembled it, but said parts to really fix it are unavailable.  He is very elderly and sick so is now out of the picture.  But I really want to fix my watch. 

DP

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    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
    • I would go for the dearer spring. You won't need to remove the spring from the carrier ring and then use a mainspring winder to get it into the barrel, for a start. Also that spring is closer to the needed dimensions, especially the length. The length plays a part in the mainsprings strength. If you double the length you will half the force (strength) of the spring and vice-versa. A spring with 20 mm less length would be about 7% shorter, so technically would be 7% more strength, but I find halving this number is closer to real-world findings, so the spring would be about 3 to 4% more strength/force. On a mainspring that ideally kicks out 300 degrees of amplitude, a 3% increase in amplitude would be 309 degrees. Increasing or decreasing the length of the mainspring will affect the power reserve to a greater or lesser degree. It depends how much shorter or longer it is.
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