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Tudor

“Replica” Rolex 3135 questions

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So I e got a “fake” 3135 on the desk. I tore it down partially because it keeps good time but will suddenly loose an hour a day... I determined it’s stopping completely; not running slow. 

I figured it’s dirty (yes) and dry (yep) so I figured a quick clean up of the train and a few drops of oil and off we go. 

Well, I have a feeling that the mainspring is very weak. It might be broken but I’m thinking an aftermarket replacement barrel for a real 3135 might be a nice upgrade and the torque would certainly be higher.

Has anyone fit either a genuine Rolex barrel or an aftermarket one to one of these movements? Any other parts that interchange easily? 

I did think it was cute they added a second dummy cock opposite the real one to make the balance cock look like a balance bridge...

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So my plan now is to get another complete (new) movement to get the watch running (about $300 new on eBay) and then dedicate this one to see what Rolex movement parts fit, and don't fit, into the "fake".

We know the barrel assembly doesn't fit directly. But, perhaps changing the lower jewel it will. Like I have time for this, but it will be a good and useful project once I finally get around to it.

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Interesting.  I've never seen one of these counterfeit movements torn down.  It has nice pearling and I'm impressed they set a jewel for the barrel.  I really doubt actual 3135 spec'd parts would work properly in this movement though.  You just might be the first to try.  

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Well, I ordered an aftermarket complete barrel. Swiss made so probably the supplier to Rolex. It looks like the fake one so I’ll let you know how it fits. Only $35 so I’ll just save it if it doesn’t fit right. 

Main event the spring seems to be the problem I don’t want to replace like for like unless it is in fact broken. If the new one fits, I’ll open it up and see what’s going on before I chuck it. 

I wonder that the “jewels” are made of... they are red but very pale color. If it runs a couple years it’s good enough. 

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And regarding gen parts fitting, one “known” problem is the reversing wheels on these. The wheels apparently swap and I have unconfirmed rumors the winding bridge complete can be swapped. This one seems to work but just thought I’d throw that out there. 

It should be mentioned this is a “replacement “ for the 3135. So the form and many parts seem to interchange. It is not a “decorated” 2824 clone or any of that junk. 

Quality is still a *bit* below typical Rolex, but I think (hope) with some TLC it can run decent. 

 

Edited by Tudor

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I finally got back to this last night.

The good news is that the aftermarket barrel I ordered looks like it will work perfectly. Gear pitch and form factor seem correct.

The bad news is that it doesn't.

The aftermarket barrel arbor has a bottom pinion of 0.9mm, which presumably fits a 1mm stone bore. The "fake" arbor has a pinion diameter of 0.85mm, and the "fake" stone seems to be 0.9mm bore (I cannot measure that accurately enough). So it doesn't fit. (I didn't get to checking the top bore yet).

So, because the "fake" spring is filthy and might be broken (I have not pulled it out of the barrel yet, but it has some odd appearing areas) I decided to swap the "fake" arbor into the aftermarket barrel and mainspring. Maybe tonight I'll finish that up. I have the "fake" one out, but haven't popped open the replacement one yet.

The other option is to turn the arbor pinion of the replacement barrel, or to replace the bottom stone with one of correct bore. My reservation with replacing the stone is: if the bore is wrong, the OD might be as well... I'll see if I can find an inexpensive one to try out maybe. That, and I've never replaced a stone before, so there is room for error there... (better to practice on a junker like this than a genuine mainplate I guess!)

Final option is to remove the replacement spring from the replacement barrel and install into the "fake" barrel, but I don't think that will be necessary. Plus the fit and finish of the replacement one seems so much nicer... If it comes to that, I'll stash the complete replacement barrel and just get a replacement spring.

Ultimate option is replace the mainplate with a genuine one. That's obviously expensive and I foresee to potential for MANY problems adapting the "regulation system" of the fake movement into a genuine main plate. Oh, just replace that too... And so it goes...

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Update:

it was running well on the bench. Ran overnight non stop with one wind (I just would the mainspring from the ratchet wheel screw, so it may have had a bit more in it). So, I decided to case it up. 

There are some screwy things going on in the watch. I guess the case is set for a 2824 clone or something. The stem height is such that with the 3135, they add a “shim” under the dial. That drops the date wheel away from the dial, which looks odd. But that’s minor. 

Once cases up, it decided to stop running. It seemed like the balance stop (for hacking) might be hanging up. A tap of the crown (once screwed down) seemed to get it running. For a while anyway. 

Looking a bit deeper the balance wheel seems to have a lot of end shake and just didn’t seem smooth and nice to me. So I pulled the upper pivot/endstone/lyre spring off...

it then runs like a bmw on five cylinders, but it runs. Ok let’s tighten this up. 

Cleaned the parts and then lost the upper pivot reinstalling it.... AAAAAHHHHHH!!!!

so, it’s still dead on the bench. 

Im going to look in my junk box of assorted dead movements and see if I can find either a pivot or a complete end shock assembly that fits. I still have to figure out how to adjust end shake on this crazy movement...

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On 8/8/2018 at 5:17 AM, Tudor said:

Well, I ordered an aftermarket complete barrel. Swiss made so probably the supplier to Rolex. It looks like the fake one so I’ll let you know how it fits. Only $35 so I’ll just save it if it doesn’t fit right. 

 Main event the spring seems to be the problem I don’t want to replace like for like unless it is in fact broken. If the new one fits, I’ll open it up and see what’s going on before I chuck it. 

 I wonder that the “jewels” are made of... they are red but very pale color. If it runs a couple years it’s good enough. 

Hello,

Would you mind to provide a link for the aftermarket barrel you bought ? 

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From eBay- Clark's parts (I think the user name is nostalgia2000)

His generic crystals are very nice for old Rolex watches. Very close to original in shape and magnification (for those with Cyclops).

You could search for a Rolex 27-127 crystal and I'm sure you'll find him that way. Then search other items (or go to store- I think he has a store set up)

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From eBay- Clark's parts (I think the user name is nostalgia2000)
His generic crystals are very nice for old Rolex watches. Very close to original in shape and magnification (for those with Cyclops).
You could search for a Rolex 27-127 crystal and I'm sure you'll find him that way. Then search other items (or go to store- I think he has a store set up)


Thank you very much

Envoyé de mon Moto G (5) Plus en utilisant Tapatalk

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Hi mate

Just signed up because I've got a clone submariner with the bridge off that holds the barrel, all the train wheel and escapement wheels. I plan to bin off the auto wind because of the wheel issue noted above. Owner happy for it to be manual. That stopped working so I took bridge off to investigate now I am here regretting even seeing it. 

I suspect my difficulty in getting the bridge back on again is mostly because the jewels in the bridge are not countersunk so the pins have to all be bang on and won't "find" their way in by gentle wiggling. I could be talking cobblers of course so... anyone got any tips on how to get the shafts all lined up or am I on the road to sorrow and will just have to keep trying..... 

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All of that goes under one bridge?  Ugh.  Generally that's called a three quarter plate movement since the plate covers 3/4 of the movement.  You don't see that too often anymore except with older pocket watches and some chronographs. Getting it all lined up will be a real chore.  Go slowly and don't force the issue.  The fourth wheel and escape wheel pivots will bend or break in a heartbeat.

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