Jump to content

Help identifying movements


Recommended Posts

I don't normally touch other peoples' watches but on this occasion a good friend asked if I could have a look at 2 of his 50 year old watches and hopefully improve them.  Both dials and movements are signed Winegartens and one case has Dennisons stamped inside the back.  Both movements run quite well despite never having been serviced.  If possible I would like to find service documentation for these but of course I need to know something about the movements first.  Can anyone help me to identify them please?

 

IMG_0427.JPG

IMG_0428.JPG

IMG_0429.JPG

IMG_0430.JPG

IMG_0431.JPG

IMG_0431a.jpg

IMG_0431b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No idea regarding movements.

A watch is a watch. You can strip them down to parts, photograph the order. Clean in hot water and ammonia, then dip in shellite.
Black Moebius grease for barrel and mainspring. Moebius 8000 for slow moving parts and 9010 for fast moving parts like escape wheel.
Pallet lever doesnt require oil usually. 9010 on both ends of balance staff. I usually put a bit of oil on tip of screwholes to prevent seizing.

There is nothing else to it for older watches, you won't find obscure service guides unless they are ETA, Omega, Rolex, or similar movements.

The main thing is strict cleanliness and robust cleaning technique,

Newer more high performance watches require adherence to service charts for optimum performance between service.
An ETA 2836 for example will benefit from correct grease to pallet jewels, high speed oil for high speed parts. Correct grease/oils in keyless and date mechanism. Mainspring either gets grease or no grease depending on the watchmaker (I use grease).

Chronographs again require more thought for moving parts.

A good start is to google "Moebius Oil chart for watch movements" - it goes through different size movements and oil recommendations.

When I started with cheap watches such as the ones you posted, I only used Moebius 8000 as it was cheap and fits all purpose. Service interval atleast 2 years (many watches still running to spec with 8000).

I'd soak the cases in ammonia and water to remove sediment, then polish gently by hand with Autosol or a buffing compound.

The crystals will need soak in above to remove crud, then sand with 400/800/1200/1500/2000 (wet sand) and then polish with PolyWatch (found on eBay).
The best way to glue them back in is with GS Crystal glue (ebay as well).

Straps are either ebay or Cousins (the open ended ones for the 2nd watch can be hard to find, ebay is okay - look for "open ended leather strap").

Feel free to ask more  questions.

Edited by AlexeiJ1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Winegartens with some watches used AS movements. If you are able to remove both from there cases, then remove the balance complete. You might find some ID around the balance area. If not, then remove the hands and dial, see if the I D is there. If nothing then take good clear photos showing the keyless work. That is how we I D movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help, with which I think I can answer my own question - though confirmation from the experts would be nice!

The square gold watch has a symbol under the balance with a "P" in it and "330" underneath, which I think might be Peseux.  The SS watch has a symbol under the dial "FEF 190".  Fleurier perhaps?  A shot of the keyless works for the FEF 190 is included for info.

IMG_0434.jpg

IMG_0436.jpg

IMG_0437.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • I found this from a while back CS100 seems fine, but at around 500 Vickers it's not quite as hard as "blue" steel, but still harder than annealed. I'd try to find annealed (the post above has a U.K. supplier of small quantities).
    • As an experiment i was thinking of not hardening it to see how it fairs. Now that i have a complete template i could knock up another in half the time if this loses its elasticity. I might play about with a few pieces today to test their bending and spring properties. This was cs 100 the supplier quoted in annealed state, it was nice to work with files so I'm taking it thats its state. What you are looking seems like it would need annealing to work it. This is why i went for this stuff that cuts out that process, it was so easy to work.
    • Showing state of hairspring on receipt, backplate & 'dished' wheel.  Thanks, Nev. Amplitude v. weak - balance wheel turns over arc of only ~20deg. Don't know how to calculate movement rate or safely vibrate balance spring! Meantime I have reduced the 'dishing' & clock no longer runs for more than a few minutes except face down which supports my theory that it was 'dished' as a hack to avoid doing a proper repair.
    • I would harden and temper (to a light blue). It's so easy to do and only takes a couple of minutes. A search on ebay UK for "spring steel strip cs" finds plenty available in small quantites and thicknesses from 0.1mm up.  But the question is ( @nickelsilver) which "CS" number is best for watch parts ?  Also, from one of the ads : "CARBON SPRING STEEL. SIZE IS METRIC 15.00mm X 0.10mm X 304 MM  CS100 FINISH BRIGHT . HARDENED AND TEMPERD TO 480-530VPN" I've no idea about 480-530VPN. Does that mean it needs annealing before working?       Have you seen this video, he shows how to determine where the indents go ?  
    • Here is the insert ring for rectangular or elliptical movements: Note that the length is the side with the stem cut out on the spreadsheet (in the picture below this is 15.15: Here is the fake pdf file, again you need to convert to .zip after download to access the FreeCAD and 3mf files. Rectangular insert disc.pdf    
×
×
  • Create New...