Jump to content

Help identifying movements


Recommended Posts

I don't normally touch other peoples' watches but on this occasion a good friend asked if I could have a look at 2 of his 50 year old watches and hopefully improve them.  Both dials and movements are signed Winegartens and one case has Dennisons stamped inside the back.  Both movements run quite well despite never having been serviced.  If possible I would like to find service documentation for these but of course I need to know something about the movements first.  Can anyone help me to identify them please?

 

IMG_0427.JPG

IMG_0428.JPG

IMG_0429.JPG

IMG_0430.JPG

IMG_0431.JPG

IMG_0431a.jpg

IMG_0431b.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No idea regarding movements.

A watch is a watch. You can strip them down to parts, photograph the order. Clean in hot water and ammonia, then dip in shellite.
Black Moebius grease for barrel and mainspring. Moebius 8000 for slow moving parts and 9010 for fast moving parts like escape wheel.
Pallet lever doesnt require oil usually. 9010 on both ends of balance staff. I usually put a bit of oil on tip of screwholes to prevent seizing.

There is nothing else to it for older watches, you won't find obscure service guides unless they are ETA, Omega, Rolex, or similar movements.

The main thing is strict cleanliness and robust cleaning technique,

Newer more high performance watches require adherence to service charts for optimum performance between service.
An ETA 2836 for example will benefit from correct grease to pallet jewels, high speed oil for high speed parts. Correct grease/oils in keyless and date mechanism. Mainspring either gets grease or no grease depending on the watchmaker (I use grease).

Chronographs again require more thought for moving parts.

A good start is to google "Moebius Oil chart for watch movements" - it goes through different size movements and oil recommendations.

When I started with cheap watches such as the ones you posted, I only used Moebius 8000 as it was cheap and fits all purpose. Service interval atleast 2 years (many watches still running to spec with 8000).

I'd soak the cases in ammonia and water to remove sediment, then polish gently by hand with Autosol or a buffing compound.

The crystals will need soak in above to remove crud, then sand with 400/800/1200/1500/2000 (wet sand) and then polish with PolyWatch (found on eBay).
The best way to glue them back in is with GS Crystal glue (ebay as well).

Straps are either ebay or Cousins (the open ended ones for the 2nd watch can be hard to find, ebay is okay - look for "open ended leather strap").

Feel free to ask more  questions.

Edited by AlexeiJ1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Winegartens with some watches used AS movements. If you are able to remove both from there cases, then remove the balance complete. You might find some ID around the balance area. If not, then remove the hands and dial, see if the I D is there. If nothing then take good clear photos showing the keyless work. That is how we I D movements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for your help, with which I think I can answer my own question - though confirmation from the experts would be nice!

The square gold watch has a symbol under the balance with a "P" in it and "330" underneath, which I think might be Peseux.  The SS watch has a symbol under the dial "FEF 190".  Fleurier perhaps?  A shot of the keyless works for the FEF 190 is included for info.

IMG_0434.jpg

IMG_0436.jpg

IMG_0437.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • So here is the new base (v 2.1), I made it so that the base will fit over and swallow the stump of the hand pusher tool (or at least my clone of the tool), I also reduced the OD of the bottom skirt a little as it looked/felt a little large, here are a few pictures and the fake .pdf file which you need to convert to .zip once downloaded.   The cut-out seen on the below image on the bottom of the base should swallow the OD (40 mm, +0.1 mm tolerance) of the stump and the height of the stump 9.5mm (measured to 9.1mm, but rounded to 9.5mm) - let me know if this works for your tool.   Note, I think you may need to print supports for the new internal shelf created? Modular Movement Holder.pdf  
    • Hi Frank, you have dived headlong into the deep end. Hairspring work has to be the scariest thing a newbie has to tackle. Your hairspring appears to be bent and just putting it back into the regulator would not allow the balance to work properly. It might start oscillating but the performance would not be good. The proper thing to do is to unstud the hairspring, remove the hairspring from the balance, reinstall the hairspring on the stud carrier, reshape the endcurve and centre the collet to the balance jewel hole. This challenge would either make you or break you. Hope that you will be able to fix your watch. Welcome to the world of watchmaking.  Watch this video. It think it'll give you an idea of the task ahead. From your 1st photo, I think you have a etachron type stud. Let me see if I can find a video on how to remove it from the arm.
    • Have read of the Tech Sheet attached on the balance section page 12. It may be bent but until you reposition it back in the regulator pins you'll never know. Cheers CJ 4R35B_4R36A.pdf
    • Aloha All, My Seiko 4R35B movement stopped working today. Upon closer inspection, it looks like the balance spring came out of the regulator pin. This is my first time working on a balance. Any advice on how to get this spring repositioned (back to normal)? I'm pretty sure that while adjusting the beat error on this movement, I must have turned the stud (I didn't even know they turned), and the spring eventually fell out.  Will the spring go back to even spacing when it's back in the pin, or does it look bent? Thanks, Frank  
    • Good job, that band matches the watch perfectly.
×
×
  • Create New...