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    • By Mickeycz
      Hello,
       
      I'm new here and into watch/horology world as well. I recently tried to replace the dial on my 7750 watch.
      1) Open the wathc case
      2) removed rotor
      3) removed stem (gentle push of remove stem pusher and pull the stem out)
      4) removed the movement from the case
      5) put movment to movement holder
      6) removed hands
      7) removed dial
      8) put new dial
      9) pressed the hands back, hovewer during setting it up I realized the movement is not running - even when I wind it up - it is solid/stable and not ticking at all.. 
      Kind of out of ideas what can went wrong, the movement was functional correctly before..
       
      Thank you for any ideas.
      Mickey
       
    • By sunday
      Hello, I'm building a watch using a Sellita SW200 and I bought an ETA 2824 dial.  The dial has four feet and so does my movement, but they don't line up, the ones on the dial are too far apart relative to the movement.  I think if I cut off two feet I can make it fit but I'm not 100% sure.
      Is this a common scenario?
    • By AdamC
      Hello,
      I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ).
      Thanks in advance.



    • By AccidentalWatchmaker
      Hi all,
      I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. 
      Anyone have any ideas?
       
      Best,
      Dan

    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 



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    • Apparently cleaned, and described as a good quality movement.
    • The synthetic oils won't have any issues like going bad with time. On the other hand how many of us have ever seen worn pallet fork pivots?
    • Reading the various websites and even the PDF all yield confusion? So cousins indicates ultrasonic with vacuum technology which are not going to have. But the next link I have another company specifically says for watches and is little more open on basically it's a general good cleaning solution. But look at the PDF and it's specifically says is for clockworks? So ignoring all the silly descriptions it looks like Elma WF Pro Is a good cleaning product and they indicate at least for clock works that the cleaning time should be: 2-10 min.Then a course you follow up with the same rinse you have at least two jars. Then you can just air dry with warm air even though it says you don't need warm air which page of just how to find out how it works for drying. Elma WF Pro Cleaner https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/elma-wf-pro-cleaner https://www.hswalsh.com/product/watch-cleaning-fluid-25-litre-elma-wf-pro-hf6091      
    • Many thanks for your fast response. The clock is apparently en route. It was hard to tell from the photos - but after spending a lot of time searching Google, I'm pretty sure it's one of the typical models floating around in auctions. The dial is marked Elliott & Son (not Sons). Sure, I'll take photos when I receive it. The seller is in GB. All best! MP        
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