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    • By AccidentalWatchmaker
      Hi all,
      I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. 
      Anyone have any ideas?
       
      Best,
      Dan

    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 



    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By arkobugg
      Hello Mates!
      Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
      So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
      Has anybody done this befor? 
      And how it the best way to do this?
      Thanks   A
       
       
      ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion

       
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    • Quite cool pice of history..
    • I missed your post with the balancestaffs.com 30T2RG = OME26.5 BS4132 (RONDASTAFFS1856) (A=305) This also has an early inca version BS4133 (RONDASTAFFS4187) (A=305) 30T2PC = OME260  BS4149 (RONDASTAFFS3276) (A=329) and now I see what you mean, here they say you could use the slightly longer version too BS4148 (RONDASTAFFS1858) (A=332) which I'm not so sure of, even if the staff lenght isn't that far off it might affect the movement of the balance wheel since the pressure from the inca block springs would be slightly higher all time and one might not have any endshake at all. I would go with the original lenght of these.  
    • A gents "UK Time Dundee" on the bench today. This is one of the earlier Dundee Timex watches as it has the "UK Time" branding, so probably mid to late 1950s This is what arrived in the post. Not very clean and that crystal is almost certainly made from pure unobtanium. The "works" are stamped Made in Britain, but later versions often had Made in Scotland on them. I have it running, but the winding mechanism is badly worn (who would have thought it, looking at that crown ), so it feels a little "gritty" while winding. I used UV cure phone glass glue to close up the cracks in the crystal, but it really needs to be replaced. None the less it ticks and tells the time, and I've removed the case klingons, and given everything a good shine, so it is a whole lot more presentable. I'll let it run for a bit and regulate it. Another piece of local history joins the 404 collection.  
    • I've been making some screw recently out of 316 steel but my stalling point has been polishing the screw heads. After I cut the slot I have been filing them flat then rubbing them in diamond paste.   I apply the paste to an aluminum sheet and start with 45 micron diamond paste and rub the screw heads in it. Clean them then repeat with 8 micron and 0.25 diamond paste. However the finish is not good. I'm aware if you buy sets of diamond paste there are 7 grades to go through so it might be I'm jumping sizes to quickly but as the paste is expensive I thought I'd check here first. From start to finish how long should it take to polish a screw head.   This is quite frustrating because I feel like I've go the hard bit down but the part that should be easy is not working.
    • If you look at cousine you will see the balance complete for your movement 30T2PC is the same as for the Omega 260, "Balance Complete ( 1327 ), Omega 260" which is the one they use for the whole range of movements using the same balance cock with incablock shock. There is an 30T2RG too but this one has no shock and therefor use one other balancestaff (RONDASTAFFS1856) and the balance cock here originated from the caliber 26.5. The Omega 260 balance complete is marked obselete on cousine so you have to look at the option to replace the balance staff with the one called "OME2601321" at cousine.. But if you would search the bay sometimes you might find one looking for the other calibers using the same staff.
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