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    • By AdamC
      Hello,
      I know this is a long shot but would anyone happen to have the technical sheet for the ETA 1164. I acquired this little beauty on ebay; a non-runner from the USA, which needs a lot of TLC. I've never tackled anything quite like this one but fancied the challenge. However, I'm not 100% sure yet whether the everything on the bottom plate under the dial is complete - can anyone confirm? The top plate however looks fine. The watch back is stamped "Seeland Watch Co. Swiss" - having looked it up, it appears Frederick Seeland was once CEO for IWC! Nice historical timepiece once I've restored it. I've added a few photos for reference (yes, I've removed the balance ).
      Thanks in advance.



    • By AccidentalWatchmaker
      Hi all,
      I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. 
      Anyone have any ideas?
       
      Best,
      Dan

    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 



    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
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    • hello to all, Does anyone know when lesson 4 will be open for enrollment? I cant find any info on the WR website about it.
    • Actually that is not true. If the slot is wider there will be no full contact between driver blade and screw, but there will be two shorter points of contact, since these are parallel to the axis of the blade they  not tend to lift the tool, which is good. In addition there will be some friction between the tip of the blade, and the bottom of the slot. As a result, he screw will be driven properly. Compare to a wedge shaped (aka flared) driver. In theory there are always two thin strips of contact, which are as wide as the blade. The down side is that the blade tends to cam out because there the surface asre not paralled are inclined, and there is no friction contact to the bottom. Parallel tip drivers are also somehow common in general mechanic, from small to big sizes. These are usually considered better, and are more expensive.  In the comments of this article https://www.cnccookbook.com/8-brands-to-consider-for-the-worlds-best-screwdriver you can read about paralled, plus JIS and Pozi cross types, which are unknown to many.
    • Send it to replateit.com in Canada. Wonderful work. They know omega. Theyve done dozens for me so far.
    • Glad to be here....
    • Suggest that you post in the correct forum which is "watch repair help" or perhaps "chat about watches", because not everyone reads all sections. You can also ask moderator to move you post.
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