Jump to content
  • Similar Content

    • By AccidentalWatchmaker
      Hi all,
      I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. 
      Anyone have any ideas?
       
      Best,
      Dan

    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 



    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By arkobugg
      Hello Mates!
      Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
      So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
      Has anybody done this befor? 
      And how it the best way to do this?
      Thanks   A
       
       
      ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion

       
  • Recently Browsing

    No registered users viewing this page.

  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Don't forget to clean it off spit with distilled water or isopropanol afterwards though, as it contains quite a lot of bacteria, which may dine out on the varnish in the long term. The bacterial content of human saliva is the main reason I would suggest that you never blow in to a watch, or breath on to a camera lens to "clean" it. Slightly more aggressive is white vinegar, which works on certain stains and marks, but needs careful testing with a tiny amount on an area that is not going to be seen. It may dissolve some types of lacquer. Denatured alcohol works on some stains, but again it also dissolves some finishes, likewise acetone, isopropanol, and other organic solvents.   As has been stated, any action runs the risk of further damage. Even tap water, depending on the mineral content, may leave annoyingly obvious marks when it dries. Less is often more, so work on small areas at a time, use good magnification so you can see the results of your actions close up,  and if you get the slightest hint that the varnish is lifting, or the finish is being damaged, stop before you ruin the whole thing.
    • JDM,   No, does no more pay. VWatchie, no personal experience, that type is a newer one. But it has the Indian look. Frank
    • Yes it should be a tapered screw, it forces the hammer arms apart or lets them come closer together. They are often really tight. Put some oil around the perimeter of the head and coax it in both directions. A little turning usually makes a big adjustment, careful! You may not need to adjust it though, do you have clearance with the minute cam? Also, the jumper spring that brings the hammer in contact with the cams doesn't generally have a lot of power. It needs to be greased and reliably coming into contact with the cams. The hammer faces will need a light coat of grease where they contact the heart cams.
    • With a ring inside the crystal this is an armed tension type. The Sternnkreuz 'G22' catalogue covers these which you can download at http://www.sternkreuz.de/accordion/assets/Sternkreuz_Gesamtkatalog G22.pdf Whilst for the Sternkreuz 'ST'' range Roamer does have some specific citations (p25), for the 'ATC' range you need none are mentioned. Almost certainly therefore you'll be fine with a standard ATC crystal that meets your measurements. The usual advice is to go 0.1 larger than the outside diameter measurement you've taken. This means when you release the crystal, after it has been gently 'squeezed' in the claw removal/fitting tool, it makes a nice tight fit. Since you're using Cousins your best bet is going to therefore be https://www.cousinsuk.com/product/standard-chrome-ringed-glass-atc# and the 30.7mm size.    
    • Is not that difficult really. As Matabog noted, dies threaded M6 are standard. The nice expensive set have their Dia. specified, the Chinese write Rolex just to indicate quality, but we know that true Rolex-specific dies are for the screw-on case-backs ...that's another story. Then on AliX search  "watchmaker dies", 20 pieces nylon are like$8, aluminium quite a bit more. I personally choose based on shipping times, things have improved but China post is still very slow, HK, NL post are OK, 7-10 days. 
×
×
  • Create New...