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    • By AccidentalWatchmaker
      Hi all,
      I'm currently building a custom watch with an ETA 2892-2 movement. The movement is from an old Brietling. I managed to fix it and was working perfectly. I was in the process of putting it all together, was attaching the second hand and it suddenly stopped. I believe I may have used too much force. However, I have taken the watch apart again (about the 12th time!). I notice that when I move the hacking spring it stops as it should, but when I return it to the position that would usually allow the movement to move again it doesn't. I assumed I'd knocked something out of alignment, but to add to the confusion if I give the escape wheel the slightest nudge it continues ticking. It's baffling me. 
      Anyone have any ideas?
       
      Best,
      Dan

    • By AdamC
      Hello, I've been struggling for two evenings now to fit the train bridge on this ETA 2832. Every time it looks like all pivots are aligned through the jewel holes and I begin tightening the bridge, the wheels begin locking up. On closer examination, it looks to me like the 4th wheel is not seating flush against the centre tube as shown in one of my photos. I believe this because the pinion on the 4th wheel is higher than that of the escape wheel, and equally about the same measurement out between the 4th wheel and the 3rd wheel pinion, which is lower. It also looks like the 4th wheel is fouling under the train bridge.
      In your opinion, would my suspicion be correct or should the 4th wheel's pinion rest approx. 1 to 1.5mm above the flange of the centre tube. If it should be flush, do you have any tips to seating it as such? I have obviously tried carefully wriggling it under light pressure without luck. I've added an extra photo showing the placed wheels during disassembly to give some context.
      Thanks in advance 



    • By Mark
      Join me as I strip down, service and review this Chinese ETA 2892-A2 clone. Seagull ST1812 watch movement. There was a couple of issues to deal with but altogether a fairly impressive movement for the price.
    • By arkobugg
      Hello Mates!
      Im working on an ETA 2783, and suspect that the canon pinion is to tight against the lower wheel.
      So I have to make it a little bit more loose...
      Has anybody done this befor? 
      And how it the best way to do this?
      Thanks   A
       
       
      ETA type of Center Wheel/Cannon Pinion

       
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    • So, I'm gonna try and post a couple of photos shortly, both Seiko of course for reasons stated earlier.   The blue one is apparently called the "ashtray" bezel. It winds, works, keeps good time, over the last 8 hours anyway, the only snag being the day pusher function does not operate every time.  The silver one is a Seiko deluxe which does not wind or work, in fact it makes a disheartening rattly noise when shaken, like something has come adrift inside.  They were purchased as items for me to take apart and study, then hopefully reassemble, having cleaned and lubed.  The ashtray arrived from India today, the deluxe arrived from Japan today, both were ordered last midweek. How easy these days to begin a new hobby, what with international freight, the Internet, and training vids on you tube. I may not even renew my porn subscription, this hobby could save me money!!!   Next purchase will be a set of intro level tools, then to business. 
    • One option for white is to use a toner reactive foil. This is what I used with success: https://www.circuitspecialists.com/pcb-trf-white.html I didn't use decal paper for printing but used toner transfer paper. My presumption this would still work with the film-less decal paper. Getting the toner reactive foil to work is tricky though. It requires both heat and pressure. Too much heat and pressure and entire dial turns white. Too little and it would only partially stick. It also requires some brushing to remove any bits of foil left over. It took a lot of time, practice an patience for it to work for me but it is certainly possible. I wouldn't recommend this on a dial you only have one-shot with, try with a blank you can practice with.
    • Ah yes, a coupla good ideas there!  I'll go find a welder and cadge a rod, that's a cheap option. Thank you fellas. 
    • Thanks, nickelsilver!  You mean, the first hairspring, the one still mounted is beyond repair? I haven’t touched it. If it is what you meant, it’s disappointing.  Thanks for the clarification on the vintage tools!
    • Can we have a look at the back. I'm sure the movement comes out from the back. That is not a waterproof case. 
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