Jump to content

Seiko 7009 stops


Recommended Posts

Hello,

my everyday Seiko 7009 stopped running three days ago. Six days ago I dropped the watch on the floor. This happened before, but the watch did not stop. First, I demagnetized the watch and manually did the winding (rotating the rotor with pegwood). This did not help, so I took out the balance complete and put it back. The watch started ticking immediately,  but only for few minutes, and stopped again.

I have no idea what it can be, expect the problem with the mainspring. It seems that the balance does not receive energy properly and eventually stops. I would take the whole watch apart, clean it, oil it and see if it works again. However, not sure how to test for other problems, and I am not use if ordinary overhaul will help it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the watch has dirt in the movement, dropping it can dislodge the dirt to a more important part of the movement, more likely in the train wheels. Sometimes a screw works loose or shears off into the movement. Anyhow, you need to dismantle the whole movement check for wear and broken parts and clean, oil and test it for time keeping. Back in the 70’s and 80’s Seiko recommended changing the barrel complete (I think every 5 or 7 years) today because many parts are obsolete, just remove the cap, arbor and spring and clean all in the cleaning machine.   

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Could be any number of things, dropping a watch to the floor can break pivots or dislodge things if a screw has worked a bit loose. As@oldhippy says, best bet is disassemble, clean and oil and reassemble. Only trouble I have with 7009s in particular is that the barrel is nigh on impossible to get open.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If not dirt and no part is  broken/ bent, shock  can cause jewel and mostly pallet jewel dislocation. The watch can repeatedly lock up and run again on wrist. Move the fourth wheel or third back and forth see if the pallets of the fork unlocks.

 Staff can break partially at pivot tip.causing the pivot to slip in and out of the jewel hole. If you don,t have a microscope, rub the pivots on the flat side of your tweezers in staright line, the broken part of pivot tip gives a course rough feeling compared to the other. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks. I will take it complete apart, clean it, oil it and see what happens. One problem that I have, and it is related to the cleaning: when I sharpen the pegwood, I just can not clean the jewel holes of balance correctly. No matter how thin the top of the pegwood is, the top is just not stable and will brake, thus not allowing me to enter the hole and clean it. Any ideas how to correctly sharpen pegwood? I tried several techniques, and I also tried to first sharpen it roughly with scalpel, and then finish it with sanding paper to form a proper top. However, it is too thin and it breaks easily, so I can not even put it in jewel hole. Bigger jewel holes or regular holes in the bridges are not a problem generally.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you completely strip the movement down, this includes removing the shockproof springs the cleaning machine should do the work. If you find it is not satisfactory I would put the parts into a tiny cup of Ronsonol Lighter Fluid and clean out using one of these. Lighter fluid evaporates very quick, a screw top container is best. No need for peg wood. Place parts on tissue and use your blower to remove any acces. 

 https://www.cousinsuk.com/category/fibreglass-scratch-brushes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I clean everything by hand. All parts except balance and fork go to isopropanol for 10 minutes. After that, I brush them with artist brush. At the end, I rinse them in pure acetone and let them dry. For balance and fork, I put them only 10-15 seconds in acetone.

That is why it is very important to me to clean the jewels holes properly (with pegwood). But, as I said, the holes are very tiny, and not sure how to work with pegwood properly, since the pegwood easily brakes.

Back to the watch. I disassembled it, cleaned and, and put together. Before, when I remove the balance and test the fork, it easily jumps from one side to another. However, when I try to do it in opposite way, I need more force to make fork bounce back to previous position. How, this is changed, and the fork happily goes from one position to another with slight touch of pegwood. I wind the mainspring manually with screwdriver and give a little bit of energy to test the watch.

Then, I put balance back. Low amplitude, not working properly. Took out the jewels on the top and bottom of balance staff, cleaned them, oiled them, however, the amplitude stays very well. Took the balance out again, checked the pallet bridge - one screw was lose (my fault obviously, not sure why I did not screw it tight while reassembling). Put the balance back - nice amplitude, problem solved.

After 12 hours, I checked the watch, still working. It also holds time nicely (not sure about that completely). Put it on my hand, it stopped after about 15 minutes. Then I discovered the rotor does not work and does not wind the mainspring.

Removed the balance again, put little energy in mainspring, but now I can't put balance back (or at least, I have some horrible amplitude and then watch stops in few seconds).

So, it seems I am at the beginning again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The second attempt: I took whole movement apart again, cleaned it, oiled it, I also managed to clean all of the jewel holes with pegwood. I also opened mainspring barrel and took out the mainspring. It was quite dirty, I cleaned it, oiled it, and put everything back again.

To my surprise, the amplitude looked very good, the automatic winding system seemed fine. The last step was to put the movement in the case. I had trouble with the dial ring and putting stem back (although I think I put it correctly). I took the movement out of the case to check for a problem, but then the amplitude got lower and the watch completely stopped.

Since I did not move or touch anything, I suspected it was the mainspring with not enough energy. I gave "external" power by using pegwood and slightly touch the central wheel. The amplitude was normal again.

So, my conclusion would be that I have problem with the mainspring: it does not give enough energy for the train to transfer it to the balance wheel. Maybe at first, when the mainspring is fully in tension, but after some time, it is just not enough and watch stops. However, I am not sure where I can buy new 7009 (or 7s26) mainspring for replacement.

On the other hand, it could be that the hole made for the barrel arbor got bigger, and now the mainspring teeth are not fully in contact with the center wheel. But I would say that the problem is the mainspring. It is strange however that the watch stopped few days after it fell on the ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Another update: cleaned everything again, put new mainspring (sourced from other movement).

I manually wound the movement by using screwdriver just before I put it back in case. It worked about 5 days with normal wearing. However, it stopped working again. I tried to wind it by wearing it (I give it at the beginning about 3 minutes of shaking), but the watch stops again. It seems that something is wrong with the winding system, but I just can not figure it out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the watch works when you manually wind it, the fault is in the auto.  It sounds to me that the automatic is not working. You need to check all the parts for the auto. Move the isolating weight around with your finger, if you use finger cots cover your finger first, if not a tiny piece of tissue between you and the weight is needed. Watch the winding and see if it is behaving correctly. Parts could be worn

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree.. It sounds like the automatic part. Moving the rotor both ways should show if it is winding. It may be a problem with a reverser or transfer wheel relaying the winding motion of the rotor to the mainspring. You should see the ratchet turning with movement of the oscillating weight. If it doesn't turn, then it isn't winding the mainspring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I moved the weight and the winding system seems to work. However, once I cased the movement, I could not hear the rotor oscilating. It turned out that the plastic white ring was not positioned correctly and it did block the free movement of weight. How, the watch works fine, I will check if it stays that way.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I did, however I still have one problem related to the calendar. Date works fine (second position) but the days are somehow stuck. If I press the crown in, I can not change the day. It works fine when it changes automatically (around midnight every day) but manually it is simply stuck. Not sure if I forgot to lubricate something or if something is not at the right place.

Link to comment
Share on other sites



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • that band is old as stated, there is a kit that pops up from time to time on selling sites for the repair of these type bands, some of this type are adjustable on a few links, one adjustable type allows you to align the round opening in the expansion slit [like yours] with the rivet to separate, but if yours won't come out then the rivet head is too big and will have to be done with some rivet removal and replacement, I suppose if you could make/optain the correct rivets that one could alter the said band, the tops/caps do lift off after raising the tabs....  
    • This is a watch from a friend who sent it to a neighborhood watchmaker for a battery change. It came back with the watch stem in a ziplock bag and the dial skewed 20°. The watchmaker told him that the stem was faulty and the watch cannot be repaired. I opened up the watch and found that one dial foot was broken off and still stuck in the movement, while the other was bent until it was flat against the dial. The stem could be inserted but it couldn't be pulled out to quickset and time adjusting positions. I did a full disassemble, cleaned and oiled the movement. But when it put in the battery, the second hand runs super fast. Like it gains 30 mins every hour. Any advice on fixing this problem? TIA.
    • I determined that the balance staff is rotating, not the roller table, so my second attempt at riveting was unsuccessful. I have ordered a new balance staff and will take measurements when it arrives. The balance staff i originally ordered (and now reordered) was specified as: Replacement balance staff: (A. Schild Caliber 984 1002 1021 1124 Original Balance Staff Part 723) so it should be correct. Measurements: (see pic below for terminology) xxxyy is a place holder until the new balance staff arrives. Lower pivot: Old - .08 mm New - xxxyy Lower pivot to balance seat: Old - 1.53 mm New - xxxyy Roller shoulder: Old - .42 mm New - xxxyy Hub: Old - xxxyy New - xxxyy Balance shoulder: Old - .86 mm New - xxxyy Collet shoulder: Old - .56 mm New - xxxyy Upper pivot: Old - broken New - xxxyy
    • Hello and welcome from Leeds.  We're here to help. 
    • I was just about to adk that, probably they have unnecessary waiting lists to make their watches appear more exclusive than they actually are.
×
×
  • Create New...