If you are set up, a video replayed slow, would reveal what is going on.
If you are thinking, Pallet jewel position a hairy edge, you can lower or raise the escape wheel.
I keep in mind, the fork interfaces functionally at both ends, pallets and horn. , if it is happy at impulse jewel side, I wouldn,t touch the fork.
Good luck Pal.
eBay has a plethora os movements, with case still attached, for next to nothing. Horological schools usually recommend a particular movement for class work and practice. However, if you simply want to pull it apart to see how it works and then try to put it back together, buy anything that ticks. You can pick up a “dollar watch”, times, etc or other vintage unmarked movements for next to nothing. Seeing things move together is far more important, IMHO, than a specific movement.
do be careful! You may spark a new expensive hobby! :-)
cheers from Texas
Cleaned, de-maged and checked h/s for stickyness. Nothing to be observed from that. Did another test you may comment on. With balance removed, I gently nudged the pallet fork side to side to start the release-lock operation. At a couple of close to each other positions on the escape wheel circumference this is not functioning as I believe it should. It all happens fast and is hard to observe but I think there is a ”skip over” where the locking doesn’t happen as it should but locking is happening on the next tooth. As escapement teeth look decent, could this be a case of pallet jewel position on the hairy edge? Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Another Timex today.
This time a 1974 model/caliber 25 based, 23550 02574 - "possibly a Marlin" but the experts will no doubt be better placed to give me an exact model.
This arrived unable to wind or set, which was down to a broken wind/set rocking bar. A suitable replacement was extracted from a donor movement, and after a quick service and polish, and a fresh crystal this is the result. Another very 1970s curly font black and white dial. Clean and readable and running well.