Jump to content

Re-bushing a clock barrel


clockboy

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

I have a clock barrel that needs re-bushing as I cannot find a suitable replacement barrel. The issue is the existing bushing has worn and is out of centre. I have measured and the existing hole which is approx. 7.5mm the new bushing will be 9mm. I have purchased a replacement bushing that has the required inside lip and when fitted will just need broaching out. However my question is how do I make the new hole exactly in centre. I have a watchmakers lathe (Star) and I can fit a three jaw chuck and it does hold the barrel. However my end stock will only take a 7mm bit. I am presuming I will have to broach the new hole but the issue will be broaching and still keeping dead centre. I have a pillar drill so was wondering if there is a centering bit I could purchase and then drill and smooth out for the final friction fit.
Any ideas much appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You really need to be able to drill the hole out on your lathe, or set up a boring bar as a second option to bore the hole to size, its the only way you can be sure to keep it central.

The way I did this a few months back was to set up the barrel in my 3 jaw chuck and use a dial test indicator on the machined part of the barrel and rotate the barrel checking the runout and adjusting until I had it down to a couple of hundreds of a mm.

I then  drill it out to 10mm and carefully measured the hole to check it didn't drill oversize.

I machined my own bush from brass tube stock I had previous purchased for making large clock bushes making it 0.05mm larger diameter than the hole I drilled and 0.2mm ticker than the barrel, with a small chamfer on the leading edge to make it easier to start.

I then friction fitted it using my arbor press to push it in, but I could of just as easy put a block of wood ontop of it and gently tapped it in.

I then reamed out the hole in the bush to fit.

I did not do any broaching to fit the bush.

As I had lots of space between the barrel and the plate I put a lip on the bush that sat on the outside of the barrel for extra strength.

 

 

centering.jpg

drilling.jpg

bush1.jpg

press1.jpg

press2.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Tmuir said:

You really need to be able to drill the hole out on your lathe, or set up a boring bar as a second option to bore the hole to size, its the only way you can be sure to keep it central.

The way I did this a few months back was to set up the barrel in my 3 jaw chuck and use a dial test indicator on the machined part of the barrel and rotate the barrel checking the runout and adjusting until I had it down to a couple of hundreds of a mm.

I then  drill it out to 10mm and carefully measured the hole to check it didn't drill oversize.

I machined my own bush from brass tube stock I had previous purchased for making large clock bushes making it 0.05mm larger diameter than the hole I drilled and 0.2mm ticker than the barrel, with a small chamfer on the leading edge to make it easier to start.

I then friction fitted it using my arbor press to push it in, but I could of just as easy put a block of wood ontop of it and gently tapped it in.

I then reamed out the hole in the bush to fit.

I did not do any broaching to fit the bush.

As I had lots of space between the barrel and the plate I put a lip on the bush that sat on the outside of the barrel for extra strength.

 

 

centering.jpg

drilling.jpg

bush1.jpg

press1.jpg

press2.jpg

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Tmuir,  Unfortunately I do not own a large enough lathe. If I had then this job would be a relatively simple job to achieve. I have a pillar drill and a watchmakers lathe. The watchmakers lathe does have a three jaw chuck and I have tested and the barrel fits. However the tailstock will only take a 7mm drill. I have measured with callipers and using the teeth to centre the existing hole is worn to one side. I might have to broach out to get the existing hole into centre then drill with a 8mm and broach out the rest for nice friction fit. Thats my thoughts for now anyway.I have purchased some pre-made barrel bushes that have a rim for the inside of the barrel that stops the arbour binding. It's the hole thats the issue. What fun !!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Topics

  • Posts

    • Before putting it back in the case I would fit the hands and use a pin vice on the stem to make sure the hands were in line. 
    • Put the movement in a movement holder and it will be supported as you push down on the setting lever post to release the winding stem. Make sure the post is over the shoulder of the movement holder so what you are pressing down on is supported. As a general rule, hold the movement and not the movement holder. Replace the hands when the movement isn't in the case and support the centre jewel (if it has one) on a hard surface or staking block when replacing the hands to stop the jewel accidentally moving or even coming out. A dedicated movement holder with a central jewel support is even better, but pricey
    • It might help us if we knew which watch like model number.
    • Hi, guys I have a bit of a predicament and hopefully, somebody can advise. I'm working on a Roamer MST 521 where the movement is extracted from the crystal side. I'm now at the final hurdle where I need to replace the movement back into its case but I'm not sure of the correct procedure. I still need to fit the hands but that's where the problem lies. If I insert the winding stem to test the hands for correct alignment I will need to turn the movement over to release the stem again it's the spring-loaded type and needs a small bit of force to push down but with the hands fitted, I don't think I can do this on a cushion without causing some damage to the hands and that's the last thing I want to do, this watch has already been a love-hate relationship and I'm so close to boxing this one off which I'm counting as my first major project.  The other option is to case the movement then fit the hands and hope everything is okay. I've already broken the original winding stem but managed to find a replacement, the last one in stock, so I'm a bit reluctant to keep removing it. Any suggestions would be appreciated. 
×
×
  • Create New...